01/10/2025
14th – 31st Aug 2025
We kicked off our Alaska road trip the day after our wedding – me, Lu, my brother and Jířa (our fun crew from Belgium, haha) boys had flown in to join us. Guys arrived on July 28th, but the first two days were spent sorting out a few last details with the car, which we later handed over for them to travel and sleep in. We had prepared a 14-day itinerary for them, squeezed in a few hikes together, celebrated with a wedding helicopter flight and a very punk-style feast, and finally, on August 14th, we set off on a shared adventure.
Find more about first days in BC + Yukon section >>>
Day 5 (August 18, 2025)
Fifth day, on August 18th around 1:00 PM, we finally crossed into Alaska. At the border, we met a friendly guy who told us that border guards often stay here for four months, with the nearest small shop in the town of Chicken and larger supplies only in Tok, about 150 miles away. This border is open only four months a year — closed the rest of the time due to snow conditions. At 2:00 PM, we stopped in Chicken, taking a photo with the town’s sign.
Next was Tok, where my brother bought the first Alaskan beers and we refueled. Our first night in Alaska would be in Fairbanks, right across from a school/university, so we’d even have Wi-Fi. On the way, we made a quick restroom stop, and the lady at the shop immediately chatted with us, showing all the stuffed animals she had in the store.
Originally, we had planned to visit Chena Hot Springs, but after chatting with Sandy (whose cats we had watched in Canmore) and seeing the $20 USD per person entry, we collectively decided to skip it. Continuing to Fairbanks, we cooked dinner before sleeping. An older gentleman in a van, who apparently has lived there for several years, came by to confirm that parking overnight is tolerated for a maximum of two nights and gave tips on where to go afterward. Interestingly, we found out his great-grandfather was from Slovakia. He also recommended a local microbrewery for the next day’s journey to Denali National Park and suggested visiting the hippie town of Talkeetna, a hub for Alaska heli tours.
Day 6 (August 19, 2025)
Savage River Loop Trail, Alaska [4.78 km, 163 m ↑, 163 m ↓]
On the way to Denali National Park, we made a recommended stop at the 49th State Brewery, where we tried two beer flights and discovered a lot of interesting varieties. Outside the brewery stands “The Magic Bus 142” from the movie Into the Wild, based on the true story of Christopher McCandless. I had wanted to see the bus in the wilderness for a long time, but learned it had been moved because curious tourists often got stuck and had to call for help, costing Alaska a lot of money and valuable rescue time. The original bus is reportedly at the university, where it’s planned to be slightly renovated for safety reasons and turned into an exhibit.
Bus 142 was originally a school bus, later used as a crew bus for road construction workers in the 1940s. After the project, it was left by the Teklanika River in Alaska as a makeshift shelter for hunters and hikers.
We then continued to Denali National Park, where part of the park was unfortunately closed. By car, we could only access the Savage River Loop Trail, and buses go further to the 43rd mile, but there wasn’t anything interesting for us there, and the journey would have taken forever. Our goal had been to reach Wonder Lake, but this wasn’t possible this year. We agreed that we’ll have to return someday to climb Denali and finally see Wonder Lake.
For today, Savage River Loop Trail was enough. We walked a bit above the trail for better views, but it was rainy and overcast. None of the official trails go further, so we headed back. Even in the rain, we encountered many other visitors — no surprise, since Denali is breathtaking.
Denali National Park is one of the most stunning natural treasures in the United States and is home to the highest peak in North America — Denali, formerly known as Mount McKinley. Denali rises to 6,190 meters (20,310 feet).
Day 7 (August 20, 2025)
Kesugi Ridge Trail, Alaska [29.20 km, 1,191 m ↑, 1,181 m ↓]
On the seventh day, we tackled the Kesugi Ridge Trail. It’s possible to hike the entire ridge, but that would be about 50 kilometers and would require camping on the trail — something we weren’t equipped for with four people. Plus, we would have had to hitchhike or split up anyway, so we decided to hike the middle section together and then have me and Lu hitchhike and then picked up the guys at the parking lot.
We tried to start early to give ourselves enough time for the trail and hitchhiking, but the weather wasn’t cooperating — it was raining and the fog was so thick you could cut it with a knife. For the first two hours, we questioned whether we should have even started, but after about two hours, the fog began to lift, revealing stunning views and we finally stopped freezing. From that point, we truly started enjoying the trail and didn’t regret setting out. The fog still rolled through the valleys and over the peaks, but it added the perfect magic to the trail. Most importantly, the rain stopped and we had a chance to dry out our soaked rain gear. The trail normally offers some of the best views of Denali and the Alaska Range, though today we only caught glimpses.
We finished the trail around 4:30 PM, and me and Lu immediately set out to hitchhike. At first, our attempts were largely unsuccessful. We even tried flagging down two motorcyclists, both riding solo. They stopped, asked where we were going, and explained that they’d love to help but had no space since their passenger seats were full of gear.
Eventually, we managed to hitch a ride with a guy about our age, who recommended that we should visit the ice caves — glacier caves directly in the glaciers. He tried to describe how to get there, but without signal, photos, or any videos, and with no prior knowledge of the area, it was tricky to make sense of it. We took notes and are already super excited to explore them..
For the rest of the day, we just needed water and stumbled upon a memorial to Alaskan veterans. Then we continued to Talkeetna for a quick stop. Most shops seemed closed, though some local restaurants and pubs with live music were coming alive. Since someone had to drive, we moved on to a camping spot closer to Anchorage, where we planned to continue our journey the next day.
Day 8 (August 21, 2025)
Harding Icefield Trail, Alaska [15.48 km, 1,059 m ↑, 1,059 m ↓]
Our next steps took us to Anchorage for a quick city tour. The guys were on a mission to find new shoes, since the ones they arrived in had already seen hundreds of kilometers and looked ready to give up.
From there, we headed to Kenai Fjords National Park. There’s only one main road leading in, and of course plenty of boat routes. This road is one of the most beautiful drives we experienced in Alaska — we couldn’t get enough of the dramatic views. The main road runs along Stewart Highway, a National Scenic Byway offering a perfect mix of towering mountains, fjords, forests, and glaciers.
At the park, we tackled the Exit Glacier / Harding Icefield Trail. The trail is fascinating right from the start because it’s dotted with signs marking the glacier’s edge through the years… The glacier is known for its rapid retreat — since the 1950s, its terminus has moved back over 1 km. The trail is short, which makes it extremely popular. We started around 3:30 PM, so most of the hikers we met were descending. When we reached the top — or more precisely, the point just below the peak to get closest to the glacier — a group of three people left, giving us the views and our snack in complete solitude.
Many climbers and hikers use Exit Glacier as a starting point for multi-day glacier hikes. The whole icefield covers approximately 700 km².
Afterwards, we moved toward the Lost Lake, which awaited us the next day. The guys had set up their tent, we got our sleeping arrangements ready, and started cooking dinner — when suddenly, we noticed someone approaching our modest campsite… A little wary, since wild camping isn’t allowed everywhere in Alaska, it turned out to be Kryštof, who had heard us speaking Czech and came over to say hi to some fellow countrymen. 😊
Day 9 (August 22, 2025)
Lost Lake, Alaska [24.39 km, 906 m ↑, 906 m ↓]
We tried to start at Lost Lake as early as possible since most of the trail would be exposed to the sun. Along the way, we passed plenty of hikers and bikers. When the lake finally came into view, we couldn’t wait to cool off — the sun was already blazing. Instead of stopping at the first viewpoint, we continued along the lake, amazed at how far it stretched. There were many side trails leading to different parts of the lake. We chose the most secluded spot, had a snack, and mentally prepared ourselves for a swim — the water was, of course, freezing.
On the way back, we took the Winter Trail for a change of scenery. The trail offered more views of Seward Harbor, which we couldn’t get enough of, so we later drove there to explore. Along the way, we came across Dale Clemens Cabin (Lost Lake Winter Trail, Kenai Peninsula, Alaska) — a perfect spot for backcountry skiing in winter and trekking in summer.
PS: The cabin is often booked months in advance, especially on weekends and holidays. Reservations should be made as early as possible, even six months ahead. It has a capacity of 6 people, equipped with a wood stove and bunk beds (you’ll need your own sleeping bag and sleeping pad). The cost is $50–75 USD. All info can be found here: Dale Clemens Cabin.
We wanted to have dinner in Seward, so the guys tried to find a local specialty — supposedly moose steak. When they asked at a restaurant, the staff looked at them wide-eyed and said it’s forbidden. Eventually, Jířa found a popular restaurant, but when we arrived, there was a long line. The hostess told us the wait time for seating was about 45 minutes, so we left without dinner and headed to our next day’s starting point.
Day 10 (August 23, 2025)
Crow Pass Trail, Alaska [37.01 km, ↑ 1,053 m, ↓ 1,384 m]
Today we tackled the Crow Pass Trail. Since the start and end points are about an hour and a half apart, we decided hitchhiking wouldn’t make sense and we didn’t want to give up the chance to complete the entire trail. We had breakfast together, then Lu and I set off while the guys drove to the other end. About halfway, we planned to exchange keys so we could pick them up later.
It was going to be a tough day — almost 40 km with about 1,000 m of elevation gain, and the guys had even more climbing. Adventure awaited, including a river crossing — a reason the trail is not recommended in or after rain. Because it’s so long, very few people hike it; we only met 4 people heading the opposite way (including my brother and Jířa) and on our side, just two trail runners and another couple who were probably camping somewhere along the trail.
The beginning was a steep climb with stunning views of surrounding mountains and waterfalls. We passed old mine sites with remnants of machinery. At the top of the climb, we were rewarded with views of a lake and a cabin by the shore where you can stay overnight.
PS: The cabin fills up quickly, especially in July and August. Reservations are required and can be made up to 180 days (~6 months) in advance. It’s available June through October (other times may be closed due to avalanche risk or poor conditions). Cost is $75 per night for up to 6 people. More info here: Crow Pass Cabin.
As we approached the glaciers, the trail revealed its most breathtaking views. We encountered a snowfield on a steep slope; without crampons, Lu slipped immediately, so we decided to bypass it. Near the river, the trail became thickly overgrown, though still visible. We crossed a beautiful bridge over an amazing canyon — we couldn’t imagine who built it, as the trail seemed untouched. Here, it was clear why this trail isn’t recommended in wet conditions, even for those avoiding the river crossing.
At the river crossing, we watched two guys make it across first to gauge the water level — problem was, they were much taller than us. The crossing was deep and the current strong; we used our trekking poles for balance and braced ourselves for the icy water. Our boots and socks got soaked, so we wrung them out and had a Snickers bar to warm up before continuing. Around the corner, another crossing looked even deeper and more powerful. A rope was barely hanging there, so we tried an alternative route over a fallen tree. We waved to the guys to stay put while we crossed. Afterward, we had a snack and a beer together, swapping tips about the upcoming muddy slope, bog and river or snow crossing.
The rest of the trail was less scenic, but the adventure continued — a ladder and the slope my brother had mentioned. Lu came back halfway to help me, as my imagination made the challenge seem bigger than it was.
Eventually, we reached the final bog; it wasn’t as bad as described, just a matter of taking a different line. According to the map, most of the elevation gain should have been at the beginning, then mostly downhill — but that wasn’t entirely true. I couldn’t wait to see our “little cherry” — our car. We arrived little bit later than the guys, about 15 minutes after them. Originally, we planned to sleep somewhere else, but everything was too close to the road, so we returned to a dirt path, cooked dinner, and went to sleep, satisfied.
Day 11 (August 24, 2025)
Today is mostly a driving day as we head toward Valdez and Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, where glacier caves await us, and we’re getting ready to leave Alaska soon.
Our first stop is above Hatcher Pass, at the historic state park of independent mines. We explore the area to see what was mined, the machinery that has been preserved, and how the miners lived. Practically every type of rock was mined — many of them unknown to us or with unknown uses — but primarily gold. Mining began in 1906, when Robert Lee Hatcher discovered gold-bearing veins near Willow Creek. Peak production came in 1934, when over 34,000 ounces of gold were extracted. Operations ceased in 1951, with a total of 140,000 ounces mined.
Miners primarily used shovels and gold pans, but we were amazed by steam engines adapted to the local conditions.
Since we still had a lot of driving ahead, we didn’t want to stop to cook, so we looked for a place with showers and a restaurant. We found the perfect spot along the way. After that, we pushed on toward Valdez, where we ended the day camping by a beautiful riverside spot.
Day 12 (August 25, 2025)
Root Glacier, Alaska [16.45 km, 458 m ↑, 458 m ↓]
Our first goal was to find the glacier caves near Valdez on the Worthington Glacier.
Unfortunately, Lu and I each remembered slightly different directions, so we tried both the left and right sides — but no luck. Still, visiting this glacier is worth the stop: a short walk brings you right under the glacier, where you can see a glacier cave that’s inaccessible due to flowing water.
We then continued to Wrangell–St. Elias National Park, specifically the village of Kennicott/Kennecott. Our plan was to visit the Root Glacier, but we soon learned we couldn’t drive into the village because the vehicle bridge is only accessible to locals — they have keys to unlock the gate. We had to park at the pedestrian bridge and either walk into Kennicott or take a shuttle. There are two shuttle options: one costs $10/person but the last run leaves around 6 PM, which we would miss; the other costs $15/person and runs until 8 PM, but we’d have to wait almost an hour. So we decided to walk — about an hour and a half, which wasn’t too bad. Along the way, we saw a local mining cemetery where men from all over the world were buried, often dying young due to harsh conditions.
On the way up, we only saw two other hikers, but arriving in the village was a completely different experience — crowds of visitors were everywhere. Many people come for mine tours, glacier adventures, camping, or just to relax. The history of Kennicott’s mines, primarily copper, is honestly more fascinating than Hatcher Pass, but we didn’t have much time to explore and pressed on toward Root Glacier, hoping to find glacier caves.
About an hour and a half later, we reached the glacier itself. To get into the cave, we would have had to cross the glacier. With the sun still shining, we could see the water running on the glacier and the distance we’d need to cover without any proper equipment. So we decided to not be silly and turn back, leaving more glacier adventures for another time — ideally with someone experienced.
The glacier itself is accessible for day hikes and glacier treks, suitable for beginners and experienced hikers alike. Even with the semi-dilapidated path leading there, the visit is absolutely worth it.
Day 13 (August 26, 2025)
What was supposed to be just a boring, long drive back toward Banff, we decided to spice up with a stop at Hidden Lake, accessible via a short 1.5 km trail. We had planned to cool off in the lake, but seeing the lilies and other plants poking out of the water, we changed our minds.
Eventually, we discovered two small rowboats freely available by the lake, so we borrowed one for a short while and enjoyed a relaxing moment on the water.
About an hour later, we crossed back into Yukon, and around 10 PM we spotted a perfect spot to spend the night near Kluane Lake, so we parked and prepared dinner.
Find more about first days in BC + Yukon section >>>
Approximate expenses for the whole 18 days and 4 people:
· Gas = $1,346
· Food = $1,896
· Showers + Tips + Parking + Entry Fees = $318
TOTAL: $3,560 (64USD/person/day)
Note: We didn’t pay for any accommodation. Throughout the trip, we looked for places to sleep using the iOverlander app 2, and it worked perfectly. In Dawson City, we planned to use the RV parking, but it was fully booked. When we asked about wild camping, the camp manager recommended a spot with an amazing view. We also used the same app to find showers and drinking water.
Note 2: Once again, there are some unfinished adventures from this trip that we will have to return for, such as climbing Denali, the highest peak in North America, glacial adventures like ice caves, or swimming in a glacial pool.