01/09/2025
29th September– 10th October 2024
In Banff, we met Lůca – who instantly became our ultimate Canadian partner in crime, through sunshine and snowstorms alike. Now she’s off chasing her next adventure in New Zealand, but first she’s making a short break in Mexico. Since her flight leaves from Vancouver, we came up with the perfect plan: a farewell Canadian road trip — and, surprisingly, our first ever road trip together. We’ve done plenty in Banff, but somehow never hit the road, so this felt like the right time to fix that.
Of course, we want to make a few stops along the way, but the main focus is Vancouver Island. We’ve got about 12 days total, with one day reserved for the drive there and another for the way back.
Lůca and I actually start our adventure a day earlier, because on September 28th we’re running a half-marathon — Melissa’s Road Race. Filip and Lůca showed up as our emotional support squad, basically dropping us off like kids at school and picking us up again once we survived the run. That same evening, Lůca had a shift and became our personal bartender after the race — which makes me wonder how our road trip departure the next morning is going to go, haha.
Day 1 (September 29, 2024)
We kicked off our road trip bright and early at 8 a.m., running mostly on excitement (and not much sleep). With more than 800 km to cover, it was clear this first day would be all about the long drive.
Our first real stop was Revelstoke – cafe with Lůca’s favorite coffee brand, perfect place to stop for a little break. Revelstoke doesn’t exactly offer too many choices, and on top of that, we had to make sure they had gluten-free and vegetarian options. In the end, we went for poke bowls—and honestly, after the previous day, they hit the spot perfectly.
From there, it was another 400 km until we reached Seton Lake around 6 p.m. The lake had just the right setup for tired travelers: picnic tables, good views, and space to stretch. Lůca had packed a big pot of dhal, which she cooked the previous day, so dinner was as simple as firing up the camp stove.
An hour later, we made a short stop at Duffey Lake, just in time for the sunset. The lake sits right by the road, so it was only a quick pause. We had also planned to stop at Lillooet Lake, but by then it was pitch dark. Eventually, we all agreed we had already seen enough beautiful lakes for the day and preferred to continue driving. Fortunately, our planned overnight spot was close by, right next to the trailhead leading to the Train Wreck hike.
Day 2 (September 30, 2024) — Panorama Ridge Madness
Good weather called — a sunny day ahead — while Day 3 threatened rain. We switched plans accordingly and decided to tackle the legendary Panorama Ridge today. By 7 a.m., Lůca was already brewing fresh coffee, and shortly after 8 a.m., we were hitting the trail.
This wasn’t just any hike — it’s about 33 km round-trip with 1,643 m of elevation gain. It’s not a stroll, especially at the start. The first kilometers are steep and unglamorous, winding through forest with zero views, which is not rewarding. But a few kilometers in, the trail opens up into meadows painted with autumn’s gold and amber, contrasting beautifully with glaciers and peaks, some of them covered with a snow. Views are simply breathtaking.
We hiked slowly, taking in the view—and frequently snapping photos. From afar, we even spotted a bear of the trip (at a safe distance, of course).
Around 1 p.m., the trail grews tougher. We huffed and puffed, but the payoff was worth it. By 2 p.m., we reached the ridge and beheld Garibaldi Lake in its full turquoise glory. Walking Panorama Ridge is by far our favorite experience in British Columbia so far — challenging, yes — but unforgettable.
Just as we reached the top, the weather is changing every single minute. It’s pretty windy at the top, so we put on, all of our layers and start with photo madness. After few minutes typicall mountain weather showed up. Thunder rolled and snow began to fall. Only nature can do that.
On the descent, we met a bunch of hikers asking how much farther it was and whether they should turn back. A few looked like they were ready to call a helicopter but if they are that far away, we are trying to motivate them, because those views are literally worth every step.
We made a quick stop down at the lake, but honestly, lakes always look best from the peaks. Near the end of the trail, we found an older guy sitting on a rock, looking uncomfortable. He had a leg cramp. We offered help, but he just needed a moment to rest. Unfortunately, we didn’t have any magnesium to relieve it. Still, we offered to walk with him slowly — but he politely declined. We walked down, and once at the parking lot, we decided to wait just to see he made it safely. And he did — crisis averted.
We camped that night in the same parking lot as the previous day, ready to tackle the Train Wreck hike tomorrow.
Interesting Panorama Ridge Fact & Permits
- Scenery: Panorama Ridge offers panoramic views of Garibaldi Lake, Black Tusk, and the surrounding alpine meadows — truly some of the most stunning terrain in Garibaldi Provincial Park.
- Trail stats: The full out-and-back hike clocks in at approximately 17–19 miles (10–13 hours) with around 1,600 m (5,280 ft) of elevation gain — a very long (and hard) day hike.
- Permit: To hike to Panorama Ridge (via Rubble Creek trailhead), you’re required to have a free day-use pass, which must be reserved online on BC Parks’ site two days before your hike, starting at 7 a.m. — and yes, they book out fast.
- Alternate routes: Many hikers choose to camp overnight at Garibaldi Lake or Taylor Meadows (with reservation-required campsites) in order to split the climb into two parts, but it’s still doable in one full day if you’re well-prepared.
Day 3 (October 1, 2024)
Today was more about driving with a few quick stops along the way. We kicked things off at Train Wreck, where in 1956 a freight train went too fast, hit a rock wall, and derailed. Some of the cars were impossible (or too expensive) to remove, so they’ve stayed there ever since – now covered in graffiti and turned into an outdoor art gallery. Getting there is half the fun, with a suspension bridge and a trail running alongside crystal-clear river water.
Next came a coffee break in Whistler at the stylish Rockit Coffee (because no road trip is complete without caffeine). From there, we drove on to Brandywine Falls – beautiful, but with the rain pouring down like crazy, we didn’t stick around too long. We skipped a few lakes we had planned, partly due to weather, partly because… let’s be honest, once you’ve seen Garibaldi Lake, regular lakes just don’t stand a chance.
To stretch our legs, we hiked up Shannon Falls Pools – 9.5 km with 526 m elevation gain. The trail runs under a gondola and through forest with occasional views, and although we had a tight schedule, it felt great to move again. At the pools we snapped a few photos, then hurried down because sunset was waiting for us at Murrin Loop Trail Lookout. And honestly? Perfect timing. Golden light, ocean views, a touch of running to make it before the sun dipped.
The day wrapped up with a late-night drive closer to Brunswick Mountain, so we’d be ready for the big climb tomorrow – and still catch the ferry to Vancouver Island after.
Day 4 (October 2, 2024)
We are getting up early—or at least made a good attempt, haha. The weather didn’t look promising, but we hoped it would clear. We spent a long time walking through the forest, so the fog didn’t bother us much at first. But as soon as we reached the section where we should have had ocean views, we started silently praying the fog would move. Occasionally, we caught glimpses of the scenery, but mostly it just hung stubbornly. When we hit the part that’s trickier for us with our fear of heights, I wished even harder for the fog to disappear… or at least not thicken.
At times, my nerves got the better of me, while other moments I couldn’t have cared less which path we took. Just when we thought we’d reached the summit, we realized it was a false summit. We tried snapping photos whenever the landscape opened up, but most of the time we could only see the trail akad and even that would vanish at the most inconvenient moments.
We scrambled across a section that neither. Lu was immediately on the other side, I was strugling a bit there and Lůca just didn‘t like it, and when we tried to navigate Lůca, the fog rolled in so thick we couldn’t see each other and because I know that feeling I tried to move as close as possible to guide her safely. Finally, we decided we’d had enough from this spot – cold, frustrated, and knowing the view wouldn’t improve, we turned back.
The return hike went surprisingly smoothly, and by around 6 PM we were back at the car, heading to Horseshoe Bay for the ferry to Vancouver Island. With about an hour before boarding, we wandered around, checking out local restaurant menus, but ended up just at the liquor store grabbing a few beers for the evening.
The next day we’d start our adventures at The Abyss, so after a late arrival we called it a night.
Day 5 (October 3, 2024)
We kicked off the morning at The Abyss—a truly fascinating geological crack in the ground. About 40–50 cm wide, it stretches for dozens of meters, with an unknown depth, making it genuinely “bottomless.” The exact cause is still debated. Most common hypotheses include seismic activity (earthquakes) or the collapse of an old mine tunnel. Professor Tim Stokes from the University of Victoria points out that the Extension Ridge has a gentle northern slope and a steep southern cliff, showing the stable erosion and geological forces shaping the area.
Next, we headed to Oyster River Potholes—deep, round rock pools naturally carved by erosion over centuries. Perfect for swimming, but not in our visit season. The river smelled awful, full of foam and dead fis bodies. I couldn’t find a clear explanation, but in August 2024, Somenos Lake had a huge die-off of fish likely caused by low oxygen, high water temperature, and cyanobacteria. Not the ideal swimming conditions, so we didn’t linger long…
A short stop at Elk Falls followed, where a 25-meter waterfall and a 60-meter suspension bridge made the visit worthwhile.
Then we explored Little Huson Caves, a pleasant forest walk. The main cave extends about 60 meters underground, with the Atluck Creek flowing beneath. The area has several smaller caves, some accessible for exploration, reaching up to 22 meters in length.
The final stop of the day was San Josef Bay, accessible via a 65-kilometer service road that was an adventure on its own. From the parking lot, it’s about 3.5 km each way to the bay along a beautiful, interesting trail. Our goal was to see caves and narrow passages only visible at low tide, which we had carefully checked in advance. Our original plan was to catch the sunset from the beach, but the service road took longer than expected (or the maps suggested), so sunset was already gone when we arrived. We had headlamps and moved quickly. The walk to the beach was manageable, though, and seeing rock formations normally submerged by the ocean was fascinating. We explored the beach thoroughly, enjoyed a beer, and headed back to the car. The return trip took a bit longer in total darkness, but once at the car, we had dinner and drove closer to the points we planned to visit the next day.
Day 6 (October 4, 2024)
On our way to Port Hardy first thing in the morning, we randomly stumbled upon a tree full of shoes. We had no choice but to pull over. The place is literally called Shoe Tree. The tradition supposedly started back in the 1970s and by 1989 a local resident had added the first “decorative pair.” From there it grew into what it is today — a quirky landmark covered in dozens of shoes, from flip-flops to sturdy hiking boots. One traveler even wrote that after his boots gave up on him along the Cape Scott trail, he “retired” them at the Shoe Tree. Stories like that add to the folklore, making the tree a symbolic finish line for many tired, barefoot feet.
In Port Hardy we made a short stop for coffee and souvenirs. We found a cozy little art shop filled with handmade magnets, soaps, shampoos, jewelry, and all sorts of treasures. Since the tide was low — or maybe just turning — we headed out toward the lighthouse. On the way back we realized the tide was rising faster than expected: the spot we had crossed dry-footed five minutes earlier was now under water. We rushed back before we got stranded. We had hoped to spot whales, but realized it would mean booking a guided boat tour. At around 200 CAD per person, we quickly decided to give that a pass.
From there we continued to Little Qualicum Falls, a beautiful stretch along the Little Qualicum River with waterfalls and canyon views. It was a great leg-stretching stop, though we didn’t linger too long because our schedule was packed. Next up: Tofino, aiming for sunset at Chesterman Beach.
Arriving in Tofino, we discovered that parking lots are paid and signs everywhere read “no camping” or “no overnight parking.” That meant scouting for a more creative overnight option. We found a local brewery tucked away in the industrial area and first thought we’d simply stay in front of it. In the end, we drove around a bit more and found a quieter spot, about a five-minute walk from the brewery. The day ended perfectly: with a tasting of flights of local craft beers and the satisfaction of another improvised night on the road.
Day 7 (October 5, 2024)
We had planned to kick off the morning with Cox Bay Lookout and Pettinger Point Trail, but quickly discovered that access is only possible through private property—or maybe at low tide—so we had to skip it. Instead, we headed for Tonquin Park, exploring Tonquin Beach and Third Beach. The Tonquin Trail turned out to be the perfect mix of an easy hike and a coastal forest walk, leading us to peaceful, hidden beaches.
Of course, no Tofino stop is complete without a visit to Tacofino. Their legendary tacos gave us the fuel we needed for our next adventure: the Wild Pacific Trail. This trail is famous for its dramatic views of the Pacific Ocean, and what makes it special is that it was built largely by local volunteers who wanted to make the “Wild Pacific” accessible to everyone. The result? Beautifully maintained, easy-to-access trails hugging the rugged coastline.
From there, we made a short detour to the Ancient Cedars Loop Trail, home to massive red cedars—some more than 800 years old. One of the most famous trees here was nicknamed The Big Tree, with a trunk circumference of over nine meters, until a storm unfortunately toppled it in 2011. These trails protect some of the last remnants of original coastal rainforest, a theme that continued as we walked the Rainforest Loop Trail in Pacific Rim National Park.
Next up was the Thornton Creek Hatchery, where we’d hoped to spot black bears feasting on salmon. The hatchery is community-run and plays an important role in the salmon life cycle, especially during October and November when the fish return from the ocean to spawn. Sadly, we arrived after closing (they shut at 3 p.m.), so no luck this time. We tried to find a spot along the river without private land in the way, but our bear-watching mission was unsuccessful.
For the evening, our plan was to get closer to 5040 Peak and spend the night at Taylor River. We had originally imagined a refreshing dip in the river, but arriving after dark quickly put that idea to rest. Instead, we got a pleasant surprise: friends from Vancouver Island messaged us to say they were camping nearby. By pure coincidence, they were just five minutes from our spot, so we ended the day with good company under the stars.
Day 8 (October 6, 2024)
Today’s mission: 5040 Peak – a 6.8 km hike with 1,127 m of elevation gain. Normally, nothing crazy… except last night we may have gone a little too hard on the social/beer front, so let’s just say I suffered my way up like a stray dog.
5040 Peak is a classic on Vancouver Island – short enough for a day hike, but with the option to spend the night at the brand-new HI Cimberline Hut and catch both sunrise and sunset from the summit. The peak rewards you with some of the island’s best views: Triple Peak looming in the south, endless green ridges rolling westward all the way to the ocean, and on a clear day, even a glimpse of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and Tofino’s rugged coastline.
On the way, we stopped at Stamp River, a hotspot for bear-watching during the salmon run. Sadly, no bears for us this time – but we did watch the salmon hurl themselves upstream, literally leaping through the waterfall like tiny Olympians.
The day ended on a high note: warm shower, cozy bed, and the kind of gratitude you only feel after trading muddy boots for clean sheets. Thank you, girls!
Day 9 – October 7, 2024
We kicked off the day at Avatar Grove – most of the trail was technically closed (or “enter at your own risk” kind of situation) since it’s no longer maintained.
From there, we dove into the Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, following highlights of the Juan de Fuca Trail: Botanical Beach Loop, Sombrio Beach Waterfalls, and Mystic Beach. Each spot had its own magic.
We started on the Beach Loop Trail, and since it was low tide, we had the chance to reach the tide pools, where we spotted various marine creatures like sea anemones, starfish, and small fish hiding among the rocks. In the end, we even saw harbor seals, which are among the most common marine mammals along the Vancouver Island coast. Unlike sea lions, harbor seals around the Beach Loop Trail are very frequent and can be observed right from the shore. To spot sea lions, you need a bit more luck, and you’ll most likely hear them before you see them.
Next stop: Sombrio Beach Waterfalls – a hidden gem tucked away in a canyon-like stream bed. You follow the riverbed inland from the beach, and suddenly there it is: a dramatic waterfall spilling into a mossy gorge. Meanwhile, surfers were everywhere on the waves – the energy of the beach was unreal.
We wrapped up the park with a relaxing break at Mystic Beach: snacks, ocean sounds, and a distant waterfall tumbling onto the sand. Pure west coast vibes. 🌊
On the way to our overnight stop, we checked out Sooke Potholes Provincial Park – famous for its natural “rock tubs” carved by the river. In October, though, the water levels were low, so it wasn’t as impressive. If you want to swim here, July and August are the perfect time: crystal-clear, icy pools surrounded by canyon walls.
Tomorrow’s plan: Mount Manuel Quimper – time to get closer to the trailhead!
Day 10 (October 8, 2024)
Mount Manuel Quimper was supposed to be just a forest stroll, but with rain and heavy clouds it felt more like a battle of motivation. No one wanted to go outsider. In the end, me and Lu went up while Lůca stayed in the car to pack – our adventure was slowly and sadly coming to an end so she had to pack everything and get ready for another adventure.
No views for us at the top, but the walk still cleared our minds before heading into the buzz of city life.
Our next stop: Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. We couldn’t skip the houseboats, the Parliament building, Chinatown, or the legendary fish & chips at Red Fish Blue Fish (worth the hype, by the way). And yes, souvenirs were involved.
To wrap it up, we went to Clover Point, hoping for a sunset… only to be met with fog so thick we barely saw a few meters ahead. So we gave up on the view, headed for the ferry, and spent the night parked near the ferry.
Day 11 (October 9, 2024)
The day started with traffic on the way downtown – not exactly the highlight of the trip. Things got much better once we reached Stanley Park. We wandered around the park, stopped by the lighthouse, the beaches, and of course the famous Totem Poles. The autumn-colored trees were just too photogenic to pass without a few photos.
On the way back to the car, we spotted a bike with a big “FREE” sign on it. Lůca went ahead on foot, while we hopped on the bike (yes, both of us on one!) for a quick ride – definitely faster than walking. We made sure to leave the bike visible again, ready for the next lucky finder.
From there, it was time for downtown: lunch hunt, Gastown’s steam clock, Hastings Street, and Chinatown strolls. The day ended with a stunning sunset back at Stanley Park – the kind that makes you just stop and breathe it all in.
We wrapped things up with a stop at a liquor store and a grocery shop to grab some snacks for our last overnight stay at Verča’s place – Lu’s friend who kindly hosted us. A cozy, civilized ending to our wild road trip days.
Day 12 (October 10, 2024)
Today was all about our last breakfast at Yolk and saying goodbye to Lůca, who still had another day in Vancouver to do laundry and get ready for her trip to Mexico. For us, it meant about 12 hours of driving back to Banff. As a reward for our long drive, we were treated to a breathtaking display of the northern lights over Banff before heading home to prepare for the upcoming work week….
