01/06/2025
29th January– 4th February 2025
Lanzarote was one of those holidays that kind of just… happened. We were initially searching for flights from Canada to the Czech Republic, and only two days after booking those tickets, we stumbled upon super cheap flights to Lanzarote. What a coincidence – exactly during the time we’d be in Europe! We hesitated a little because our arrival in the Czech Republic was supposed to be a surprise, and we were worried our families might be upset if we flew straight into another vacation. But in the end, we decided: let’s go. After all, we had a full 40 days in the Czech Republic, and it turned out to be a fantastic decision.
It had been about a year since our trip to Tenerife, and we expected Lanzarote to be pretty much the same. Oh, how wrong we were. Each of the islands has its own vibe, but Lanzarote really impressed us – especially their quirky method of growing wine. But more on that later in the daily recaps.
Day 1 (29th January 2025)
Distance: 14.46 km; ↑515m ↓168m
We landed around 9 AM, jumped on the first bus, and went to buy some groceries. One big advantage of hiking the GR 131 on Lanzarote is that you pass through at least one town or village every day, so we didn’t have to carry food or a stove for the entire hike. Brilliant!
After shopping, we caught another connecting bus that took us all the way to Órzola, where our trek began. Along the way, we realized just how great Lanzarote’s bus system is – it covers almost every tourist attraction, so having a rental car isn’t essential. That said, we had one booked and were planning to pick it up after the hike for extra flexibility.
Our first few steps from the Órzola harbor were, well… dull. The first kilometer followed a road with no views. But then the trail curved, and suddenly we were surrounded by aloe vera fields, small vineyards, and isolated little houses. We passed through Haría, and since we’d had a demanding day before, we chose our sleeping spot just past the César Manrique Museum.
Wild camping is technically forbidden on Lanzarote, so we were careful about choosing a discreet spot. We were so low-key that we crawled into our sleeping bags by 5:30 PM! We were exhausted and didn’t care to wait for sunset. Also, we were freezing – we’d worked up a sweat during the hike, and once we stopped, the wind hit us hard. Lanzarote isn’t mountainous or forested, but boy is it windy. We later learned that very little grows here due to the harsh weather.
We had a quick dinner, hoping the runner who passed us wouldn’t alert anyone to our hideout. Our sleeping bags, rated for +15°C and years old, didn’t inspire much confidence, so we put on every piece of dry clothing we had. We chatted for a bit, then dozed off… only to wake up in the night roasting. Turns out, we overdressed.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #1: The island’s lack of trees isn’t due to deforestation – it’s because of its volcanic origin and harsh winds, which make it nearly impossible for most trees to grow.
Day 2 (30th January 2025)
Distance: 30.88 km; ↑695m ↓812m
We were grateful we went to sleep early because we were woken around 4:30 AM by light rain. At first, we weren’t sure whether it would pass or get worse, and we had to decide quickly whether to stay tucked in or pack up and move. The weather app was zero help – it said no rain. But rain it did. Harder and harder.
We scrambled to pack, strapping our now-wet gear to our backpacks and donning our headlamps. We were cold, hungry, and absolutely miserable every time we paused. So we chose to keep walking without breakfast, hoping to warm up and dry out a bit once the rain stopped. The sun rose around 7 AM.
By 8 AM we were already in Teguise, where we devoured breakfast near a windmill and considered visiting the Castillo de Santa Bárbara, home to the pirate museum. We got there around 8:45, only to find it didn’t open until 10. Oh well. We planned to return for the Sunday market anyway, so we moved on after wandering the cute historic town for a bit.
We knew we’d be sleeping just past San Bartolomé that night, so somewhere between Teguise and there we needed to dry everything. When the sun peeked out, we stopped and laid out every last damp item. After about an hour of drying, we made our way to lunch at La Barraca. What a place! A super sweet older gentleman served us amazing food at great prices: baraquito coffee, Estrella beer, a fresh salad, chicken croquettes, and pork with veggies and fries. We charged our power banks and enjoyed a lazy lunch until nearly 4 PM. No rush – we only had 5 kilometers left to walk with about 100m of elevation gain.
Tonight’s accommodation? Under a bridge. Yes, the glamorous life of hiking. We set up our sleeping mats and bags, and voila – another bed-to-table dinner, this time with a beer! After the sweaty-then-overheated night before, we didn’t wear as much. Big mistake. It was freezing. The wind howled under that bridge so violently I thought we’d take off like a flying carpet strapped to Tyvek.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #2: Teguise was the capital of Lanzarote until 1852 and is one of the oldest settlements in the Canary Islands.
Day 3 (31st January 2025)
Distance: 26.58 km; ↑505m ↓600m
We had breakfast with the sunrise and quickly packed up. Views started to become more interesting as we approached La Geria—the famed volcanic wine region. The GR-131 runs right alongside it, and we’d already planned to come back later for a more in-depth visit. Just walking past it raised so many questions!
In Uga, we crossed paths with a caravan of dromedaries. At first, we were thrilled – they were so close! But then we noticed their worn knees, heavy saddles, and tired eyes. While locals claim they’re well-treated and rotated frequently, the sight made us uneasy. These animals have been used for tourist rides in Timanfaya since the 15th century.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #3: According to legend, some dromedaries were brought to Lanzarote by swimming behind boats – tied with ropes and floating to shore from North Africa.
The path from Uga to Yaiza was stunning – all black lava rocks and wild beauty. We reached Yaiza (there will be our new home after the end of our GR-131 journey) and treated ourselves with an apetizer – pistachio cheesecake, baraquito, and white wine with some nuts. For later, or rather for the journey, we took prosciutto, cheese and of course especial beer. We found a place with a view and had a late lunch there. Since we had accommodation booked until the next day and a car too, we just wanted to get closer to Playa Blanca.
Our chosen spot was partially covered by rocks, so we should be fine with wind and we were just hoping that this night will be without a rain. The night sky? Unreal. Every time I woke up, I looked up and just soaked in the stars.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #4: La Geria’s vineyards are unique in the world. Vines are planted in pits dug into volcanic ash and surrounded by stone walls to protect them from wind.
Day 4 (1st February 2025)
Distance: 6.97 km; ↑22m ↓87m
The final part of the trail was a breeze. We reached Playa Blanca by 8 AM and had plenty of time before catching a bus to the airport to pick up our rental car. We strolled the beach and recharged ourselves (and our power banks) at a local café.
We wandered down to the promenade, sat by the beach, and treated ourselves to a proper coffee break in a cozy little café.
Eventually, we made our way to the airport rental car counter. Of course, there was a queue. We didn’t get our car until around 10:30 AM, but by 11 we were already on the road heading toward one of the geological highlights of Lanzarote – Las Grietas. These unique rock formations, shaped like slits and fissures in the volcanic earth, are a favorite among photographers and Instagrammers. I was all in, phone in hand, ready to crawl in for some dramatic shots. Lu, on the other hand, was less impressed – not a fan of confined spaces or photo ops.
Next stop: Playa de Papagayo. This beach is one of Lanzarote’s crown jewels, and the entrance fee is just 3€/car, but the road there is a nightmare, and we were stunned that none of the funds go toward improving it. The beach itself? Stunning. The turquoise water looked like it had been color-corrected by nature itself. Even if you don’t plan to swim, it’s absolutely worth the detour just for the view and I couldn’t resist a quick (unnecessary) dip. Of course, the place was buzzing with people – not exactly the deserted paradise one might imagine. And we did have one major gripe: no public toilets. None. Nada. The only ones around belonged to restaurants, and they weren’t exactly welcoming to non-paying visitors. We peeked into one beach cave. Ew, that had clearly become a “natural” restroom. That was enough exploring of caves for us.
After soaking in the sun and the sea spray, we headed to our next destination: our new guesthouse. And there, the dream hit a slight hiccup. Our hostess was… less than charming. She didn’t speak a word of English, and her tone suggested she didn’t appreciate our presence. Luckily, her husband was friendly and spoke English, saving us from complete miscommunication. Our room was modest: a tiny little chamber with a shared bathroom and no access to a kitchen. But there was a pool, and for the price, we were more than happy. We weren’t planning to spend much time indoors anyway.
Since the days are short in January, we quickly set off again, this time toward El Golfo. Our goal? The iconic Charco Verde, also known as the Green Lagoon. This natural wonder sits inside a half-collapsed volcanic crater and glows a surreal green thanks to a unique combination of volcanic minerals and resilient algae.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #5: Charco Verde’s vibrant color is all natural. It comes from microscopic algae that thrive in sulfur-rich volcanic water. The lagoon is fed not by rain or rivers, but by ocean water that seeps in through underground lava tunnels!
The visual contrast at Charco Verde is something else – the vibrant green water against the black volcanic sand and red cliffs feels otherworldly. It’s no surprise that Pedro Almodóvar used this location as a filming spot for his movie La mala educación.
As the sun began to dip, we made our way to Los Hervideros cliffs, hoping for a magical sunset. Unfortunately, the sky had other plans. Clouds rolled in, no cinematic sunset today. Still, the crashing waves and dramatic cliffs gave the moment a rugged charm.
We ended the evening back at our guesthouse, making plans for the next day over a simple dinner and a bottle of wine. GR-131 might have ended, but our Lanzarote adventure was far from over.
Day 5 (2nd February 2025)
Sunday morning. The big day. We were staying just a short drive away from Timanfaya National Park, and all online travel forums warned of crazy lines forming before 9 AM. So we did the logical thing: we woke up early and somehow… still managed to misunderstand the entry system. Instead of heading straight to the Montañas del Fuego entrance (where the actual ticketing and bus tours begin), we accidentally drove to the visitor centre first. Rookie move. The centre was more educational – great exhibits on volcanology and interesting info about all the types of volcanoes – but no tickets.
Once we figured out where to go, we doubled back to Montañas del Fuego and paid the 20€ entry fee per person. Totally worth it. After a short wait, we boarded a tour bus that drove us through the dramatic lava fields of Timanfaya, all while an audio guide narrated the history and geology in Spanish, English, and German. It was hauntingly beautiful.
The best part came afterward: the famous volcanic demos. Staff poured water into holes in the ground, and within seconds, it erupted back up as steaming geysers. Dry hay caught fire from the residual underground heat. And most impressively? Chickens slowly roasting over a volcanic vent. Nature’s BBQ. We were delighted.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #6: The Timanfaya eruptions from 1730 to 1736 lasted over six years, covering a third of the island in lava and creating an entirely new landscape that still “breathes” heat today.
After the park, we drove back to Teguise for the legendary Sunday market. We were dreaming of piles of fresh fruit and artisanal cheeses. What we found? Knockoff sunglasses, fake handbags, and dozens of stalls selling the same souvenir magnets. But hey, mojitos for 5€? Yes, please. We eventually found a corner with actual produce and felt slightly redeemed.
Our next stop was supposed to be the Pirate Museum at Castillo de Santa Bárbara. We had tried visiting it during our hike earlier in the week, but … this time, we asked a group of descending tourists if the museum was open… only to hear, “Sorry, it seems to be temporarily closed.” Well, at least we saved ourselves time and the uphill climb.
Onward we drove toward Haría, curious about the mysterious domes we’d spotted days earlier. Spoiler alert: they’re part of a military installation and, up close, not that magical. But since we were already in the area, we looked for a good lunch spot.
That’s when we stumbled upon Los Helechos – a restaurant with panoramic views. Jackpot! For a very reasonable price, we got soup, a main dish, and wine. All with views over the northern cliffs. It reminded us of the “menu del día” culture we loved back in Madrid.
Recharged and re-caffeinated, we drove up to Mirador del Río, a lookout point with sweeping views of the island La Graciosa. The official viewing platform has an entrance fee, but honestly, the roadside views along the narrow mountain road were just as breathtaking – and free.
Next stop? La Torrecilla de Domingo, an old building we had noted on our hike. Built in the 1920s, and architecturally resembles a small castle with a tower that offers a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. This castle-like structure was once the center of one of Lanzarote’s biggest wine-producing operations, yielding up to 200,000 liters annually.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #7: La Torrecilla was featured in Pedro Almodóvar’s film Los Abrazos Rotos (Broken Embraces), starring Penélope Cruz. In the film, the building served as a hospital where the main character recovers from an accident.
We then headed down to the beach near Órzola, hoping to find some hidden caves we saw on the map during our first day. We followed a presumed trail, but no caves appeared. Never mind. On the way to Orzóla to start our hike, we saw some interesting beaches from the bus, with white sand, surrounded by lava rocks, a perfect contrast. We had to stop for a while and enjoy it. It was quite late, so the sun was going down and sky started to be red, which was beautiful.
The day ended with simple food, a glass of local wine, and plans for our final full day on the island. We were nearly volcanic experts by now.
Day 6 (3rd February 2025)
We had mapped out a few sights we wanted to check off before heading north. Despite our best efforts, the sunrise was a bust – clouds rolled in and stole the show. No fiery sky for us. We took a slow morning walk through Arrecife, admiring its historic buildings and charming harbor. The town itself may not be the island’s most iconic destination, but it gave us a much-needed urban contrast to all the lava landscapes we had grown used to.
From there, we made our way to one of the most enchanting places on the island: Jameos del Agua. This was no ordinary tourist stop – it was a surreal blend of lava, water, and imagination. Descending into the ancient lava tube, we felt like we were entering another world. The underground saltwater lagoon was perfectly still, glowing gently with natural light from above. It’s here that we encountered something truly special: the endemic albino blind crabs (Munidopsis polymorpha) – tiny, white creatures that live nowhere else in the world. Please, do not toss in a Chin. Better to just make a silent wish and let them do their magic.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #8: Jameos del Agua is part of a 6 km lava tunnel formed by the eruption of La Corona volcano around 4,000 years ago. It was transformed into a cultural site by Lanzarote’s famous artist-architect César Manrique.
We wandered through the tunnel complex, discovering a dazzling turquoise pool surrounded by palm trees and sleek volcanic rock. Sadly, you’re not allowed to swim in it – it’s more of an art installation than a swimming pool. Still, we couldn’t resist snapping a hundred photos.
There’s also a concert hall inside the cave, known for its incredible acoustics and seating for 600 people. No performance today, but even standing there in the silence gave us goosebumps.
And yes – there’s a café and restaurant. So of course, I ordered a baraquito and soaked up the unique vibe. Lava caves, coffee, and peace? A perfect combo.
After Jameos, we made a quick stop at Ciudad Estratificada. Originally a quarry used to extract volcanic ash (rofe), this place has morphed into a natural sculpture gallery thanks to centuries of wind and rain erosion. Think giant columns, arches, and shadowy hollows carved by time.
Then we made our way – at last! To La Geria, the wine region we had admired days earlier while hiking. This time, we slowed down to truly learn about the vineyard techniques that make Lanzarote’s wines so unique.
Here, grapevines are planted in hollows dug into volcanic ash and surrounded by semicircular stone walls called “zocos.” These protect the plants from the fierce wind and help retain moisture from dew, which is essential in this super-dry climate. Irrigation? Not needed. because it maintains sufficient humidity even though it does not normally rain much on the island. The moisture from the night dew, which is common on the island, is sufficient to keep the vines moist.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #9: Many of Lanzarote’s vines are over 100 years old and grow on original rootstocks – because the island was never affected by the 19th-century phylloxera plague that devastated European vineyards. These ancient vines produce fewer grapes but much more intense flavors.
We toured a local winery, tasted a few varieties (hello, Malvasía Volcánica), and marveled at how the land – so dry, black, and lunar – could produce something so delicate and floral. They have a complex flavor with a mineral undertone, a subtle saltiness and often a light smokiness.
Day 7 (4th February 2025)
Our final day on Lanzarote began not with a bang, but with the quiet anticipation of something a little different. No more chasing buses or cramming miles under our feet. Today was about reconnecting with the land – up close, at walking pace, and guided by those who know it best.
We went into the protected core of Timanfaya National Park. Unlike the bus tours, this section is strictly accessible only with certified guides – and after being there, we totally understood why. The landscape is breathtakingly barren. The only trail open to solo hikers is the coastal Ruta del Litoral the coastal path between El Golfo and Playa de la Madera. It is unguided, but at your own risk, which is gorgeous but entirely different from the surreal heart of the park we were about to see. Within the volcanic core, fragile lava tubes, craters, and geothermal anomalies lie hidden beneath your feet, some hot enough to cook a meal. Literally.
We learned that even a single misstep can leave a mark on this ecosystem for decades. The lava fields do not “heal” like soil – one footprint can last 50 years. That’s why off-trail hiking is strictly forbidden. The terrain there is so raw it looked like we’d stepped onto another planet. We didn’t rush. We didn’t talk much. It was one of those experiences that leaves you quietly in awe.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #10: In some spots of Timanfaya, the ground temperature just 10 cm below the surface can reach over 100°C. At 10 meters down, it’s over 600°C!
Back in civilization, we made a sharp turn from lava to lotion: it was time for the Aloe Vera Museum. This quick pit stop might sound dull, but it was surprisingly interesting. We saw how the aloe plants are processed, learned about their cosmetic and medicinal uses.
And then – one final journey to the salty edge of Lanzarote: Salinas de Janubio. These sprawling salt flats shimmered in the afternoon light, turning the landscape into a living mosaic. The reflection of the sun on the thin saltwater layers made everything look like a painter’s palette.
We debated taking the guided tour but, to be honest, the entry fee seemed steep for what was essentially a walk among evaporation pools. So instead, we simply admired them from the viewpoint and let the scene soak in.
Lanzarote Fun Fact #11: Salt has been harvested at Janubio since the 1890s, and the mosaic-like layout of the flats makes them one of Lanzarote’s most photogenic industrial sites. The colors change with the light and salinity – pinks, whites, and rusty reds.
And then came the true finale: we found the perfect spot by the sea and watched the sun dip below the Atlantic. The waves lapped against the volcanic rocks as the sky turned gold. No schedule. No Wi-Fi. Just salt air, tired legs, and full hearts.
Lanzarote, you wild and windy wonder – you were everything we didn’t expect and more.
Travel Costs
We thoroughly enjoyed our trip, but we also kept our budget under control.
Here’s a breakdown of our expenses:
Trains + Buses + Car (rental, gas,) – 226 €
Food (restaurants + shopping) – 236 €
Entrance fees and activities – 107 €
Accommodation – 200 €
Flights – 150 €
Total Budget: 919 €
Budget Note:
Thanks to sleeping mainly in the car and carefully selecting our restaurants and activities, we were able to keep costs reasonable. Considering the number of experiences we collected over seven days, every euro spent was definitely worth it.
For comparison:
If we had stayed in more accommodations or used tourist agencies for entry fees and tours, the budget could easily rapidly increase. Independent travel has its charm and advantage: freedom and authentic experiences at a reasonable price.