01/05/2024
Madeira – A Journey of Hiking, Surfing, and Adventure
Our main reason for visiting Madeira was simple: hiking. We set out to complete an epic trek across the island, traveling from west to east, starting in Porto Moniz and finishing in Caniçal, or more precisely, at the stunning Ponta de São Lourenço.
At the same time, we wanted to fully experience the island—spending a few days surfing, trying out other adventures like canyoning, exploring Madeira’s diverse landscapes, and of course, indulging in the local cuisine.
Day 1 [2nd Nov 2023]
Stage 1: Ribeira de Janela → Fanal
Distance: 7.1 km
Elevation Gain: +954 m
Elevation Loss: -94 m
We landed in Madeira around 10 AM local time, relieved that our flight had arrived without any issues. We had heard stories about how flights to Madeira often struggle to land due to unpredictable winds, sometimes requiring multiple attempts or even diversions. Fortunately, the weather was on our side—clear skies, a breathtaking view, and a smooth landing, setting the tone for an incredible trip.
Before arriving, we had arranged a carpool through the “Czech Madeira” Facebook group with Roman, a fellow Czech who had been living on the island for a while. From the moment we met him, we could tell we were in good hands. Knowing that gas cartridges can be tricky to find in Madeira, he asked us in advance which type we needed and even picked one up for us before our arrival. On the way, he stopped at a shop, shared valuable local insights, and suggested we skip the first section of our planned hike from Porto Moniz due to a recent fire in the area. After seeing the burned landscape from the car, we were grateful for his advice and decided to start our trek from Ribeira de Janela instead.
Our very first encounter in Madeira had been with someone helpful, knowledgeable, and incredibly kind—an excellent first impression of the island.
The Exhausting Journey Before the First Hike
The start of the trek was especially tough for me—not because of the terrain, but because our trip to Madeira was a last-minute adventure, and the days leading up to it had been exhausting.
On October 31st at 5:45 PM, we finished work in Belgium, jumped straight into a car, and drove home overnight, finally collapsing into bed at 5 AM. After just five hours of sleep, we began the chaotic process of unpacking from Belgium and packing for Madeira.
That same day, we had to head straight to the airport, as our flight from Prague to Madeira departed at 6:15 AM. Since there was no train connection that would get us there in time, we ended up spending a sleepless night at the airport—not exactly the ideal way to start an adventure.
So, yes—our first hike in Madeira was only 7 kilometers, but with the overwhelming exhaustion and a pounding headache, it felt more difficult than a marathon. Every single step—uphill, downhill, even on flat terrain—was a struggle. But despite the fatigue, I wouldn’t have changed a thing.
The Reward – Fanal Forest & A Magical First Night
What kept us going were the breathtaking views—first, the endless ocean vistas, and then, as we ascended, the eerie, mystical beauty of Fanal Forest.
Fanal is known for its twisted, ancient laurel trees, which, combined with the almost ever-present fog, create a scene that feels either straight out of a fairytale or a horror movie—depending on your imagination. Since Fanal was our final destination for the day, we were lucky enough to experience it in both the morning mist and the eerie evening atmosphere.
Completely drained, we set up our tent and collapsed into our sleeping bags without dinner—we simply had no energy left to cook. As we lay there, wrapped in our sleeping bags, we could hear the sound of local cows grazing nearby, their bells softly ringing in the night.
Exhausted but exhilarated, we drifted off to sleep, surrounded by Madeira’s magic.
Fun Fact: The Enchanted Forest of Fanal
Fanal Forest is part of Madeira’s Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that dates back millions of years. These ancient trees, often covered in moss and twisted into surreal shapes, thrive in constant humidity and fog, making the area feel like a scene from another world. The mist that blankets Fanal in the mornings and evenings is not just for effect—it plays a crucial role in maintaining the island’s unique microclimate and supports a variety of rare plant and animal species.
Day 2 [3rd Nov 2023]
Stage 2: Fanal → Estaquinhos
Distance: 23.6 km
Elevation Gain: +1,380 m
Elevation Loss: -1,001 m
A Cold, Wet Morning in Fanal
We woke up to our second day in Madeira with the alarm set for 7 AM, but leaving the comfort of our sleeping bags was harder than expected. Everything around us was soaked from the humidity and overnight rain, and it was pretty cold. Fanal is already known as one of the wettest places on the island, and last night proved it.
Cooking breakfast, coffee, and tea helped us mentally prepare, but the thought of putting on cold, damp clothes wasn’t exactly motivating. After some hesitation, we finally forced ourselves out, packed our things, collected water, and set off. We hoped that warmer weather later in the day would help dry out our gear.
Climbing Out of the Mist into Madeira’s Mountain Views
The moment we started climbing, the cold was no longer a problem—the incline quickly got our blood pumping. Leaving Fanal’s misty laurel forest behind, we were soon rewarded with stunning mountain views.
It was only our second day, yet we couldn’t stop admiring the diversity of the landscape. The island may be small, but its constant scenery changes make it feel endless in possibilities.
Along the way, we passed several remote cottages, which made us wonder: Why aren’t these open as simple mountain shelters? They would make perfect overnight stops for long-distance hikers.
Around 11 AM, the sun came out, and we stopped at a viewpoint to dry out our wet clothes and switch to short sleeves. Being at a scenic lookout, it wasn’t long before other hikers joined us. We tried to stay modest about our “laundry session,” but our honesty earned us a reward—a group of friendly hikers offered us fresh juice in return for a chat.
Racing Against the Rain – Adjusting Our Plans
Before continuing, we checked the weather forecast, and suddenly, we had a decision to make. According to the reports, on November 5 at 7 PM, heavy rain was expected to start and continue non-stop for two days.
We had two options:
1️⃣ Take it slow and accept that we’d be stuck in our tent for two days of rain.
2️⃣ Speed up the trek, push to reach Pico Ruivo the next day, and set up camp before the storm hit—so we wouldn’t have to hike through a downpour with soaking wet gear.
Originally, we had planned not to rush, taking the trek at a relaxed pace, but freezing inside a tent for two days didn’t sound fun either.
My knee pain made the decision a bit harder, but in the end, we agreed:
📌 We would reach Pico Ruivo tomorrow.
PR6 – 25 Fontes: Stunning Waterfalls & Too Many Tourists
Our route led us onto the PR6 – 25 Fontes, one of Madeira’s most famous levada trails.
While undeniably beautiful, this part of the trek was slightly ruined by the overwhelming number of tourists. It felt like we had arrived at Mumlava Waterfalls in Harrachov—crowds of casual visitors, most of whom seemed more interested in posing for Instagram photos than actually appreciating the landscape.
Luckily, as we moved further along the trail, the crowds thinned out, and we were once again surrounded by nature’s peace.
A Hidden Gem – Lagoa do Vento
Before reaching our final stop, we made a detour to Lagoa do Vento, a secluded lake with a beautiful waterfall. Unlike 25 Fontes, this place was nearly empty, allowing us to enjoy the silence and raw beauty of the spot.
After soaking in the moment, we continued toward our campsite, knowing we had a long day ahead tomorrow.
Reaching Estaquinhos – A Sunset Campsite & Preparing for Rain
We arrived at Estaquinhos just in time for sunset, grateful that we’d made it before dark. With rain predicted in the coming days, we decided to make the most of the dry weather while we could:
✔️ Unpacked our tent
✔️ Cooked dinner
✔️ Enjoyed one last warm sunset before the storm
✔️ Washed our underwear (because why not?)
Just before falling asleep, more hikers arrived at the campsite. We were surprised they had come so late, as it was already dark, and finding a good sleeping spot wasn’t easy.
Tomorrow, Pico Ruivo awaits.
Fun Fact: The Levadas – Madeira’s Ingenious Water System
The levadas are an ancient irrigation system designed to transport water from the lush, rainy north to the drier south of Madeira. Dating back to the 15th century, these channels now double as some of the island’s most scenic hiking trails—winding through forests, tunnels, and dramatic cliffs. Today, there are over 2,000 km of levadas, making them one of Madeira’s most iconic features!
Day 3 [4th Nov 2023]
Stage 3: Estaquinhos → Pico Ruivo
Distance: 24.7 km
Elevation Gain: +1,892 m
Elevation Loss: -1,709 m
Early Start & First Poncha Experience
We set our alarm for 6 AM with the goal of reaching Pico Ruivo by 6 PM. According to mapy.cz, the estimated hiking time was 10.5 hours, so we needed an early start. However, it still took us over an hour to cook breakfast, pack up, and get moving—a now familiar pattern.
The morning trail was peaceful, and we enjoyed the solitude as we followed PR17, a stunning route that wound along levadas with breathtaking views, waterfalls, and tunnels. The longest tunnel on this stretch was 0.5 km long, meaning a headlamp was essential. The tunnel itself was just wide enough for one person, yet it was a two-way path, so we had to step aside whenever someone approached from the opposite direction.
At one point, I thought I could see the end of the tunnel—until I realize it was just the headlamps of other hikers coming towards us.
As we neared Encumeada, we were in desperate need of a bathroom break, and for the first time in days, we could use an actual toilet instead of a scenic bush. We arrived at the Boca da Encumeada restaurant, a place we would later revisit on the 10th day of our Madeira journey. The bathrooms cost 50 cents, but as good patriots, we decided it was a better idea to order coffee—and, of course, our first Poncha.
We only had one Poncha to share (we still had a long way to hike), and we chose the passion fruit flavor. It was an instant favorite, and while it was the first Poncha of our trip, it was certainly not the last—though, for today, it had to be.
A Tough Afternoon – Knee Pain & The Final Ascent
By noon, we had to push on—there were still five hours of hiking ahead, with several steep ascents and descents. My left knee was getting worse, and every step felt like razor blades slicing through it.
After climbing a few hundred meters, we were once again greeted with incredible views, and—just as before—the landscape completely changed. Madeira continued to surprise us with its diversity.
About 90 minutes before reaching the peak, exhaustion kicked in. With many meters still left to climb, we decided it was time for a Pikao energy boost—a much-needed push to keep us moving.
We also started mentally preparing for the challenge of finding a camping spot. Officially, there are only two designated tent spots just below the highest point, and they are typically booked far in advance. However, given the incoming bad weather, we hoped there might be a last-minute opening.
Reaching Pico Ruivo – An Unexpectedly Full Campsite
As we arrived at the peak, we found ourselves not alone. At the same time, two other girls—Lea from Spain and Trish from Canada—reached the top, and we all immediately started scouting for space.
To our relief, there was enough room to fit our tents. As we set up camp, we made our way to a nearby hut to refill our water and, of course, grab a local beer to enjoy while watching the sunset from the highest point in Madeira.
Unfortunately, fog rolled in just as we reached the summit, obscuring the view. We weren’t too disappointed, though, as we still had the sunrise in the morning to look forward to.
Later in the evening, two more Czech hikers arrived, and we quickly realized that at least three tents could fit in the designated area, instead of just two. Ironically, none of us had booked a spot—likely, the original bookings had been canceled due to the weather forecast.
A Stormy Night & The Tent’s First True Test
As expected, the rain arrived overnight, and we prayed that our tent would survive. Since it was pitched using trekking poles, we hadn’t been able to fully secure it on the rocky surface.
At one point, one of the trekking poles collapsed—twice—but we managed to fix it quickly. Luckily, the rain was not as heavy as originally predicted, and in the end, we stayed relatively dry.
Check our gear by click on here
Practical Info – Camping on Madeira
📌 Madeira has designated free camping spots along hiking routes, but since 2022, it is necessary to register online:
🔗 Register here
🔗 Book camping spots here
However, hiking plans don’t always go as expected, and sometimes it’s not possible to stick to a pre-planned camping spot. Regardless, you must have a permit to camp in Madeira’s natural areas.
For more information on overnight camping spots, visit:
🔗 www.madeiracamping.com/permission
Alternative Sleeping Options at Pico Ruivo
For those who don’t want to camp, there are alternative overnight options near Pico Ruivo:
🏡 Pico Ruivo Hut – Offers accommodation and refreshments.
🛖 Mountain Shelters – suitable for emergency overnight stays.
A Pleasant Surprise – Water Everywhere
Before arriving in Madeira, we had worried about finding drinking water—especially since we couldn’t locate our water filter before departure. However, this concern turned out to be completely unnecessary.
While not all levadas provide drinkable water, there are plenty of marked and unmarked drinking water sources on mapy.cz, making it easy to refill along the way.
Fun Fact: Poncha – Madeira’s Signature Drink
Poncha is Madeira’s most famous traditional drink, originally made by fishermen to keep warm during cold nights at sea. It consists of:
🍊 Fresh citrus juice (usually lemon, orange, or passion fruit)
🍯 Honey
🥃 Aguardente de Cana (local sugarcane rum)
The drink is stirred with a “caralhinho” stick instead of shaken, and legend has it that Poncha cures colds, bad moods, and even heartbreak!
EDIT (2024/2025)
Entrance fees are now in place for selected hiking trails on Madeira, costing €3 for visitors over the age of 12. This fee applies to at least 30 trails managed by the Institute of Forests and Nature Conservation, including popular routes such as Pico do Arieiro, Pico Ruivo, Levada do Risco, Levada do Caldeirão Verde, Balcões, Levada do Rei, and Ponta de São Lourenço.
The aim of this measure is to support sustainable tourism and protect the island’s natural resources. Non-residents can pay the fee via the regional Simplifica portal or directly at the site. Visitors who fail to pay may face a fine of up to €50.
Important Hiking Tip: Trail Closures in Madeira
Before setting out on any hike in Madeira, it’s highly recommended to check if the trail is open and safe. Due to the island’s rugged terrain and unpredictable weather, it’s not uncommon for some hikes to be temporarily closed due to:
🔹 Landslides
🔹 Falling rocks
🔹 Flooded paths
🔹 Trail maintenance
The best way to check the current trail conditions is to visit the official Madeira government website or local hiking forums for updates. You can also ask at tourist information centers or check with locals before heading out. Always respect trail closures, as attempting to hike a dangerous or closed route can put your safety at risk. Madeira’s landscapes are breathtaking, but they also demand caution and preparation!
Day 4 [5th Nov 2023]
Stage 4: Pico Ruivo → Poiso
Distance: 17.14 km
Elevation Gain: +911 m
Elevation Loss: -1,345 m
A Foggy Sunrise
We woke up to the alarm once again, debating whether it was worth rushing up to Pico Ruivo for the sunrise. The fog seemed to be clearing, with small patches of sunlight breaking through, so we decided to give it a try.
However, as soon as we started climbing, the fog swallowed us whole—we could see absolutely nothing. Well, at least now we have a reason to come back one day. Or so we thought.
When we saw how many people were still making the effort to climb despite the terrible forecast, we quickly changed our minds. Instead of coming back here in the future, we’d rather find a more secluded place next time—somewhere we could enjoy Madeira’s beauty without the crowds.
On the way back to our tent, we met Trish, who asked if the sunrise was worth the rush. We told her not really, so she turned back with us.
New Hiking Friends
As we packed up, we realized that Lea and Trish had the same planned route as us, so we decided to continue the journey together. The pace suited us all perfectly, but more importantly, we shared a similar mindset—open to adventure, but not in a hurry to just “check off” places like many tourists.
The trail toward Pico do Arieiro is by no means easy, and at times, we were genuinely shocked by what some people were wearing. Seeing people in sandals, flats, or even dress shoes attempting to cross the rocky, uneven terrain never ceased to amaze us.
We soaked in the ever-changing scenery—jagged ridges, deep valleys, and dramatic cliffs. The tunnels we passed through were mesmerizing—each time we emerged from one, we were greeted with a completely different atmosphere.
Then, just as we exited one long tunnel, expecting another vast mountain view, we were greeted by thick fog instead. It was surreal how quickly the weather could change.
A Test of Nerves & Another Poncha Stop
Just before reaching Pico do Arieiro, we faced one last ridge section—not ideal for someone like me, who isn’t a fan of heights. Step by step, I pushed through, reminding myself to focus on the path rather than the abyss below. And in the end, I made it—exhausted, but still enjoying the journey.
Reaching Pico do Arieiro, we stopped for a well-earned “morning” coffee and, of course, another Poncha tasting session. this time, we tried:
🍋 Lime
🎣 Fisherman’s Poncha
The verdict? Passion fruit From Encumeada still wins! But the original Fisherman’s version is pretty good too.
Before setting off, I pulled out a bag of dried meat that my brother had prepared for us. I offered it to the girls, and while Trish accepted without hesitation, Lea froze.
She stared at me. Then at the bag. Then back at me.
Finally, in a hesitant, slightly horrified voice, she asked: “Is that your brother?”
For a brief second, I had no idea what she meant—until I realized my english mistake.
Instead of saying, “dried meat made by my brother,” I asked, “do you want to try dried meat from my brother.” No wonder she looked terrified.
Once we all stopped laughing, we renamed the snack “Dried Brother,” and from that moment on, the name stuck for the rest of the hike.
Rain, A Shortcut, & A Surprise Local Bar
As we continued hiking, the rain began. We leaned into our steps and kept moving, knowing we had no chance to dry out our tents from last night. The fog rolled in and out, keeping us guessing what we’d see around the next bend.
As we walked, we chatted about life, travel, and future plans, making the time pass quickly. Then, according to mapy.cz, there was a bar in the middle of nowhere. Intrigued, we took a shortcut to check it out.
For us, a shortcut always means a longer, more difficult route, but with more fun along the way. And this time, it was worth it. We arrived at O Barracão, a surprisingly lively bar that looked much nicer than expected. Despite its remote location, it was full of locals, with cars filling the parking lot and people waiting for a table. Even better? The prices were incredibly friendly. We treated ourselves to something small to eat and another Poncha, using the break as a chance to wait out the rain.
Arrival in Poiso – Setting Up in the Dark & More Rain
We didn’t want to leave the comfort of the cozy bar, but we knew we had to keep going. The weather continued to shift, alternating between rain and clear skies, and by the time we finally arrived in Poiso, it was already dark.
Luckily, there was plenty of space at the designated sleeping spot, so we quickly pitched our tents—just in time for the rain to start again. Tonight, we slept at Poiso’s official campsite, hoping for drier weather tomorrow.
Fun Fact: Pico do Arieiro – The Stargazer’s Paradise
Pico do Arieiro is not just a popular hiking destination—it’s also one of the best places in Madeira for stargazing. Thanks to its high altitude (1,818 m) and often clear skies above the clouds, it offers some of the most stunning views of the Milky Way. The Madeira Observatory, located near the summit, even conducts astronomy sessions where visitors can use telescopes to see planets and distant galaxies. A must-visit for any night sky enthusiast!
Day 5 [6th Nov 2023]
Stage 5: Poiso → Boca do Risco
Distance: 21.9 km
Elevation Gain: +1,018 m
Elevation Loss: -2,067 m
A Cold, Wet Morning & Reluctant Packing
We woke up to the coldest morning of our entire trek. Poiso, at around 1,400 meters above sea level, had treated us to a freezing night, and it was still raining. The weather forecast didn’t look promising, and our motivation to leave the warmth of our sleeping bags was at an all-time low.
Hoping for a break in the rain, we slowly prepared breakfast. Meanwhile, Lea and Trish decided to head over to Casa de Abrigo do Poiso, a small local restaurant about 300 meters from our campsite, for a coffee and some warmth. Despite our reluctance, we eventually packed up, hoping that the weather would improve and we’d finally get a chance to dry our soaked gear.
Fog, Drizzle & Crowds on the Levada Trails
Setting off, we planned to refill our water at the next marked source, but floating debris made it look less than ideal. We took some water anyway, knowing that in this foggy, drizzly weather, we wouldn’t be drinking much.
As we descended from the mountains, the weather gradually improved, and the landscape transformed once again. We passed through PR10 and PR5 levada trails, where the number of hikers drastically increased.
Suddenly, we were surrounded by groups of tourists, mostly arriving by excursion buses. They’d hop off the bus, follow their guide along a short levada trail, then head straight to a restaurant or café for a snack and a drink.
As we sat down for a quick break, a group of tourists passed by. While we were taking out our snacks, we also pulled out our gas cartridge, which caught the curious attention of one woman. She stopped, staring at us in disbelief, and asked: “Why do you have a gas cartridge? Did you sleep in nature? So you carry all your sleeping equipment with you?”
Her entire group looked equally shocked, while their guide awkwardly apologized for them. Why? No need to apologize—we get it! Not everyone enjoys this lifestyle. Thank God for that! If they did, our five-star Hilton-style wild camping spots would be overbooked, and we’d have nowhere left to sleep!
A Final Coffee Break & The Goodbye
In Portela, we stopped for one last coffee with the girls before our paths split—they were heading back to civilization, while we still had miles ahead to reach Ponta de São Lourenço.
☕ Coffee for me
🍷 Madeira wine for Lu
A perfect farewell toast to an unexpected but incredible hiking friendship. However, when we went to pay, the price on the bill was higher than what was listed inside. Clearly, a “tourist price adjustment”—which I hate. I pointed it out, and though the server reluctantly corrected it, she did so without a single word of apology. Oh well. A small annoyance in an otherwise perfect day.
Alone Again – A Muddy Descent & Hidden Shelter
The last part of our shared hike flew by, and soon, we were on our own again. The trail ahead led us down a steep, muddy descent, followed by a stunning coastal path, where we hardly met anyone. Occasionally, we passed hikers walking in the opposite direction, but for the most part, we had this beautiful route to ourselves.
Our planned sleeping spot was a tourist shelter somewhere near Boca do Risco, but as we walked along the narrow cliffside trail, we started wondering where it could possibly fit—there was barely any space for anything but the path itself. Finally, Lu noticed a small area below the trail, and successfully found the shelter!
To be honest, “tourist shelter” was a generous term—it was more of a makeshift cabin, but it served its purpose. We were already much lower in elevation and on the drier side of the island, so our gear had time to dry out for the first time in days.
Unexpected Visitors – “A Noble Cabin”
Just as we were settling in, a group of Czech hikers arrived in the dark, also looking for the shelter. One of them called out: “Hey, I see a little cabin over there!”
Cabin? Noble words!
We laughed quietly, wondering if she was talking about our tiny shelter—or if she had mistaken our tent for a luxurious mountain lodge. In the end, they gave up looking for the shelter and decided to set up camp just above us. From what we could hear, they had to cut down a lot of grass before they could even pitch their tent. By that point, we were too exhausted to react, and in any case, there wouldn’t have been enough space for them in our tiny shelter anyway. And so, we fell asleep, ready for the final stretch of our Madeira trek.
Fun Fact: Boca do Risco – One of Madeira’s Most Dramatic Coastal Views
Boca do Risco is a breathtaking viewpoint that offers one of the most spectacular panoramic views on Madeira’s north coast. Its name translates to “Mouth of Risk”, which suits the location perfectly—the narrow, cliffside path leading here is not for the faint-hearted! With steep drops on one side and jaw-dropping ocean views, it’s one of the most dramatic sections of the trek. Despite its remoteness, Boca do Risco has remained a hidden gem, largely untouched by mass tourism. It’s a must-visit for adventurous hikers looking for Madeira’s wild beauty at its best.
Day 6 [7th Nov 2023]
Stage 6: Boca do Risco → Ponta de São Lourenço
Distance: 7.5 km
Elevation Gain: +700 m
Elevation Loss: -403 m
A Breakfast with a View & The Last Stretch Begins
We enjoyed breakfast with an incredible view, savoring our final morning in the wild. The sun was already blazing, promising a hot and exhausting day ahead. After packing up our things, we set off. Along the way, we passed other hikers, who looked noticeably fresher than us—no surprise there, as they were just starting their trek from the opposite direction.
Hunger Strikes in Caniçal & Unexpected Hitchhiking Success
We arrived in Caniçal, hoping to find a restaurant to finally enjoy a proper meal, but the area didn’t look promising for dining. Instead, we opted for the essentials:
✔️ Water
✔️ Chips
✔️ Madeiran wine
Needing a restroom, we at least grabbed a coffee and took a moment to figure out our next steps. With the heat becoming unbearable, we decided to head toward São Lourenço, but part of the route involved walking along the road—not ideal under the scorching sun. We spotted a small village (technically still part of Caniçal) that looked like it had several restaurants, so we made a new plan:
🚗 Try hitchhiking (not our strongest skill)
🍽️ Find a restaurant for lunch
🌞 Hide from the worst of the midday sun
To our surprise, two French women picked us up. They seemed confused about our destination, warning us that the area was fenced off and under construction. When we arrived, we tried asking around—most people didn’t understand us, but one person eventually confirmed that there was indeed a beach and restaurant further down.
A Failed Beach Stop & A Desperate Snack Break
Excited for food and a possible swim, we hurried down the hill, only to face a double disappointment:
1️⃣ The only restaurant was open but not serving food (kitchen closed).
2️⃣ Swimming wasn’t allowed at this beach.
The combination of extreme heat and extreme hunger was not ideal, so we found a shady spot, pulled out the last of our gummy worms, and reevaluated our plan. With no food options here, we had two choices:
🌊 Go to another beach just to swim, then hike back and continue.
🏔️ Head straight toward São Lourenço, hoping to find a better spot to rest and eat.
In the end, we chose the second option.
The Brutal Trail to São Lourenço – Beauty & Overcrowding
The hike toward São Lourenço was both stunning and miserable at the same time. The scenery was breathtaking, with dramatic cliffs, deep blue ocean views, and rugged volcanic terrain. But the experience itself? I felt like I was in two places at once:
❄️ Wenceslas Square during Christmas markets (because of the insane number of tourists).
🔥 The Sahara Desert (because of the relentless heat and lack of shade).
After this experience, I would only recommend hiking this route in the early morning or late evening. By the time we finally reached the designated campsite, we were relieved to find that there was still enough space, despite not booking in advance (it had been fully booked for weeks).
A Final Feast – Hilton Style Wild Camping
For our last dinner on the trail, we enjoyed a Michelin-star-worthy hiking meal:
🥔 Starter: Chips served as an appetizer during tent setup, paired with Madeiran wine.
🥘 Main Course: Grandfather’s famous lentil stew with smoked meat and onions—cooked under the open sky, quite literally the best lentils under the sun.
🍷 Dessert: More Madeiran wine, of course.
As the sun began to set, the tourists disappeared, leaving the peninsula nearly empty. We enjoyed the last quiet evening of our trek, sitting on the cliffs, sipping wine, and watching the sky fade into darkness. Just before heading to our tent, we ran into a few familiar faces—our fellow campers, a couple of travelers who had also come for the sunset, and a group of ultra runners. At around 10 PM, one more neighbor arrived, but for us, after the longest week of hiking, it felt like midnight. Tomorrow, our Madeira trek would officially come to an end.
Fun Fact: Ponta de São Lourenço – The Wildest Peninsula of Madeira
Ponta de São Lourenço is Madeira’s easternmost point, known for its barren, wind-swept landscape that contrasts sharply with the lush forests and levada trails found elsewhere on the island. Unlike most of Madeira, which is covered in dense vegetation, this area is almost desert-like, with volcanic rock formations, dramatic cliffs, and a completely different climate. It’s one of the few places on the island where trees struggle to grow, making it feel otherworldly compared to the rest of Madeira!
