01/06/2024
Exploring Madeira Beyond the Trails
Yes, our primary reason for coming to Madeira was the epic cross-island hike, but we also knew that this island had so much more to offer. After days spent trekking through misty forests, rugged peaks, and coastal cliffs, we were ready to experience Madeira from a different perspective.
We wanted to swap hiking boots for surfboards, dive into canyoning adventures, explore hidden gems of the island, and of course, indulge in Madeira’s incredible cuisine and local drinks.
Our next few days would be all about adventure, relaxation, and soaking in everything Madeira has to offer—beyond just the trails.
Day 7 [8th Nov 2023]
Back to civilization
A Sunrise Farewell at Ponta de São Lourenço
We woke up early, eager to cook one last breakfast under the open sky before sunrise. Our plan? To make our way to the best sunrise spot on Madeira—where we had also arranged to meet up with the girls one last time. Our timing was perfect—we arrived just before the sun peeked over the horizon, catching São Lourenço at its quietest and most peaceful. The place, often crowded during the day, was now almost empty.
With no open cafés nearby, we shared our coffee with the girls, and in return, they brought us a lemon cake from their breakfast (though unfortunately, it wasn’t gluten-free, so Lu had to pass). We caught up on each other’s news, took plenty of photos, and simply enjoyed the moment together. The girls even added to the serene atmosphere with some morning stretching and exercises, making the sunrise feel even more special. As we headed back to our camping spot, Lea excitedly discovered a forgotten cookie in her backpack—before eating it, she checked if it was gluten-free, and when she realized it was, she immediately gave it to Lu.
Once back, the girls started chatting with our neighbors, who had just mentioned that they were running out of water. Without hesitation, they offered them some of theirs—a small, simple act of kindness that once again made us appreciate their generosity.
One Last Pack-Up & Paying It Forward
The girls left ahead of us, while we stayed back to pack up our tent and gear—one last time. As we were getting ready, a new neighbor (who had arrived late the night before) approached us with a question. She had a trekking stove but had accidentally bought the wrong type of gas cartridge—a puncture-type instead of a screw-on. Apparently, it was all the store had, so she took it anyway, hoping to find a way to make it work.
Luckily, Roman had given us two cartridges at the start of our trek, and since we never ended up using the second one, we gladly gave it to her. It was nice to pass it on, knowing that it would be useful to someone else rather than just being left behind.
Hitching a Ride & Anither one Last Coffee Together
The girls had offered to drive us to the car rental, so we met up again at the parking lot and headed to Machico for one final coffee together.
☕ Fresh coffee
🍹 Freshly squeezed orange juice (not from a bottle, like most places!)
🥐 Some small snacks to celebrate the end of our trek
After enjoying our last shared moments in Madeira, they dropped us off at the car rental, and we said our goodbyes—though, as always, with the feeling that we’d see each other again somewhere in the world.
Rental Car Troubles & The ApplePay Mistake
Of course, it wouldn’t be us if everything went smoothly—so naturally, there was a problem.
We had booked the car through Booking.com, choosing full insurance there. But when we arrived at the rental office, they still demanded a deposit. And since the deposit exceeded a certain limit, they required a physical credit card in the name of the reservation holder.
Problem? We had relied entirely on ApplePay and didn’t bring our physical card. I tried negotiating a solution:
💳 Could we split the deposit into smaller amounts? – No, because of their “stupid rules.”
💵 Could we pay in cash? – No, because they “don’t accept cash.”
At this point, the girls even offered to return and use their card for us, but unfortunately, the card had to match the name on the reservation. The only remaining option? To take full insurance from the rental company itself, which meant paying an extra €27 per day. We hated the idea—not just because of the extra cost, but because of the horrible attitude of the rental company staff. But at this point, pride had to be put aside. At least we could cancel the Booking.com insurance, so we wouldn’t be paying for it twice. Finally, after way too much hassle, we got the car and could officially begin the next phase of our Madeira adventure.
First Stop: The Beach & A Well-Deserved Rest
Before checking into our accommodation, we headed to a supermarket for some essentials, then made our way to the beach. We sat, watched the surfers, and started coming up with plans for the next few days. After a week of hiking, the idea of spending time in the ocean sounded pretty perfect.
Checking Into Casa do Til & A Much-Needed Shower
For our first non-camping night, we booked Casa do Til in Santana—our top choice considering:
✔️ Affordable price
✔️ Breakfast included
✔️ Good location for further adventures
After finally showering and washing our clothes, we felt like new people.
A Night Out in Funchal & The Poncha Dilemma
That evening, we had one last meet-up with the girls in Funchal—one final celebration of our Madeira trip.
Our original plan?
🍹 Try a meter of Poncha—a tasting board of different flavors.
But there was one problem—they didn’t serve anything gluten-free, and we were starving. So instead, we went to a burger place, where they promised gluten-free options. But in reality? Lu got some fries soaked in oil instead of a bun. Not exactly the meal of dreams, but at that point, hunger won over disappointment.
Meanwhile, the girls had gone to a fancy restaurant—a place we definitely weren’t dressed for in our post-hike attire.
Transitioning from Hiking to a New Adventure
With the first part of our trip behind us, we were ready for something different. Tomorrow, the plan was to dive into Madeira’s other side—surfing, canyoning, and exploring beyond the trails.
One adventure ended, but another was just beginning.
Fun Fact: Madeira’s Unique Wildlife – Home to Rare Species
Madeira is not only a paradise for hikers but also a haven for rare wildlife, with several species that can’t be found anywhere else in the world.
🦋 Madeiran Large White Butterfly (Pieris wollastoni) – One of the rarest butterflies in the world, this species is endemic to Madeira and is sadly considered extinct or critically endangered due to habitat loss.
🐦 Trocaz Pigeon (Columba trocaz) – Also known as the Madeiran Laurel Pigeon, this bird is exclusive to Madeira’s laurel forests and plays a key role in spreading seeds for native trees.
🐟 Madeiran Storm Petrel (Oceanodroma castro) – A mystical seabird that breeds on the Desertas Islands off the coast of Madeira. These birds spend most of their lives at sea, only coming to land at night to avoid predators.
🦎 Madeiran Wall Lizard (Teira dugesii) – The only lizard species found on the island, this adaptable reptile can be seen basking on rocks or darting through hiking trails. Interestingly, it is known to change colors based on its environment!
🐬 Whale & Dolphin Watching – Madeira’s deep waters make it one of the best places in Europe to see over 25 species of whales and dolphins, including sperm whales, pilot whales, and bottlenose dolphins. Boat tours from Funchal or Calheta offer an unforgettable chance to see these majestic creatures up close.
Madeira’s isolated location has allowed many species to evolve in unique ways, making it a fascinating destination for wildlife lovers.
Day 8 [9th Nov 2023]
Island exploration
First Day of Exploring Madeira by Car – Natural Pools, Local Food & Sunset at Ponta do Pargo
After our first night in a real bed, we slept like babies, waking up just in time for breakfast. The breakfast was a buffet-style spread, and we were excited to finally try some local exotic fruits. Unfortunately, there were only standard options—oranges, peaches, kiwis—none of which tasted any different than what we could buy back home in the Czech Republic. Still, we were grateful for what was available and made sure to at least try the local avocado, which turned out to be delicious. Feeling recharged and satisfied, we set off to explore the island, with stops at:
The Ruins of St. George
Various viewpoints
A historic water mill
Several natural pools
Seixal’s Hidden Natural Pools – A Peaceful Escape
Of all the places we visited, our favorite was the natural pools in Seixal. Unlike the more well-known spots, Seixal felt less crowded and more untouched, allowing us to fully appreciate its raw beauty. The lava pools are an incredible example of nature’s power, formed by volcanic rock and filled by the ocean’s waves. We wouldn’t recommend Porto Moniz—it was overcrowded, and the experience felt less authentic compared to the quieter, more natural setting of Seixal.
🌊 Why natural pools? Aside from their stunning scenery, they’re also great for people who feel uneasy about swimming in the open ocean. The calm, enclosed waters make them a safe and relaxing alternative to the rough Atlantic waves. After swimming and cooling off, we were ready for lunch—and what better way to enjoy Madeira than with a local Espetada?
Grilling Our Own Espetada – A True Local Experience
We stopped by a local butcher, picked up some Espetada (Madeira’s famous meat skewers), and grilled them ourselves right in front of the shop.
🔥 Espetada – What is it? A traditional Madeiran dish of marinated beef skewered on a metal rod, often grilled over an open flame. To make it even better? We enjoyed our meal with an ocean view—simple but absolutely perfect.
Surfing at Seixal – Or Maybe Not?
After lunch, we returned to Seixal Beach, one of the best spots for beginner and intermediate surfers.
🏄♂️ The problem? The waves were too inconsistent, and the frequency didn’t justify the €40/person price tag for a 2-hour board and wetsuit rental. Instead of paying just to sit in the ocean waiting for a rideable wave, we decided to skip surfing this time—maybe just bad timing on our part.
Porto Moniz & A Sunset at Ponta do Pargo
We continued toward Porto Moniz, where there were more natural pools, but as expected, they were completely packed. So instead of stopping, we drove through the town, deciding to aim for something better—sunset at Ponta do Pargo.
On the way, we couldn’t help but notice the damage left behind by the wildfires that had swept through this area just two weeks before our arrival. Seeing the burnt landscapes was a harsh reminder of nature’s destruction, but also of its resilience.
When we finally reached Ponta do Pargo’s lighthouse, we realized we weren’t the only ones with this sunset idea—there were a lot of other people gathered in the same spot. But that didn’t discourage us. We found a quieter, more private place, away from the crowds, and watched as the sun dipped below the horizon, ending our first day of post-hike Madeira adventures in the best way possible.
Fun Fact: Madeira’s Wildfires – A Natural Disaster & a Human Challenge
Wildfires are a recurring problem in Madeira, especially during hot, dry summers. Many fires are caused accidentally, while others are deliberately set—sometimes for illegal land clearing, other times as acts of arson.
🔥 The biggest fires in recent history:
- 2016 – One of the worst wildfire seasons, with flames reaching Funchal’s city center, destroying homes, forests, and even a historic hotel.
- 2023 – Just before our visit, fires burned thousands of hectares, leaving behind vast areas of scorched landscapes.
Despite these challenges, Madeira’s forests are incredibly resilient—and within just a few years, nature always finds a way to recover.
Day 9 [10th Nov 2023]
Island exploration
Wine, Sledges & Bananas – A Day of Unique Madeiran Experiences
After another big breakfast (this time, we had to ask for avocados), we set off for a day filled with wine tasting, vintage sledge rides, and unexpected lessons about bananas.
D’Oliveiras Wine Tasting – A Sweet Start to the Day
Our first stop was D’Oliveiras, a well-known winery offering free tastings of traditional Madeiran wines. The tasting included:
🍷 Medium Dry
🍷 Medium Sweet
🍷 Sweet
Along with the wine, we were served a traditional honey cake (Bolo de Mel), which unfortunately wasn’t gluten-free, so Lu had to sit this one out. We both enjoyed the wines, and since I knew my grandfather loves wine, I decided to buy a few small bottles of their 15-year-old Madeira wine. Unfortunately, since we didn’t have checked luggage, I had to stick to smaller bottles.
The Sledge Ride & A Cash-Only Dilemma
Next up was the famous Monte toboggan ride, but of course, another challenge awaited us—they only accepted cash. But we had almost no cash left, and with no physical card on us, contactless withdrawals weren’t working anywhere. We walked around town, going from shop to shop, hoping that someone would let us “withdraw” money through their terminal. Most people looked at us like we were crazy. Some didn’t even understand what we were asking for. We were about to give up when we stumbled upon a small car accessories shop.
💡 A Lucky Find – They not only sold car accessories but also had a stash of gas cartridges, which are hard to find on the island. We negotiated with the owner, offering to cover any extra transaction fees. Seeing our desperation, the lady agreed to help us withdraw cash—without even charging extra. It was a huge relief, and we left the shop feeling incredibly grateful for the kindness of strangers.
Monte on Foot – The Brutal Climb and The Sledge Ride – Worth the Hype?
With cash finally in hand, we headed up to Monte—but instead of taking a taxi or cable car, we decided to walk.
After all, if we had spent 7 days hiking in the mountains, why would we need a ride now? 🚶♂️ Big mistake. The route involved climbing 450 meters of elevation in just 1.5 km—a decision we questioned with every painful step.
Once at Monte, we finally got to experience the famous sledge ride.
❄️ What is it? The Monte sledge ride is a traditional mode of transport dating back to the 19th century, where passengers sit in wicker sledges steered by two men in straw hats and white uniforms, sliding down the steep streets. While we had fun, the ride was not as thrilling as we expected—but it was still a must-do experience in Madeira. Along the way, two photographers took our pictures, and at the end of the ride, another employee immediately tried selling them to us. 💰 Price? A ridiculous €10 per photo.
We were thinking that if they sold the photos for €2, almost everyone would buy one—their work wouldn’t go to waste, and neither would the photo paper. Oh well, business strategy isn’t for everyone…
Pizza, Local Drinks & A Foodie Dilemma
After the sledge ride, we were starving, so we went to a pizzeria that had gluten-free options.
🍕 Lu had a gluten-free pizza (€3.50 extra for the dough—not cheap, but definitely worth it).
🍚 I had risotto with smoked salmon, parsley, and cheese.
To drink, we skipped Poncha (we doubted they used fresh fruit juice) and instead went for:
🍺 Coral – Madeira’s local beer
🍏 Sidra – Madeira’s local cider
Both were great choices, but we realized that after a week of trekking, we weren’t used to eating so much food so regularly. Completely stuffed, we somehow managed to roll ourselves to our next destination—the Banana Museum.
Madeira’s Banana Museum – Strange Facts & Banana Beer
The Banana Museum tour was scheduled to start in 20 minutes, giving Lu just enough time to try Madeira’s unique banana beer, while I opted for a post-lunch coffee.
The museum tour itself was surprisingly interesting, and we learned some unexpected banana facts:
🍌 Banana trees aren’t trees—they’re actually giant herbs!
🍌 The male flower of the banana plant is always removed, because if left on, it steals nutrients from the bananas, reducing their quality.
🍌 There are always three generations of bananas at once:
- Grandmother (cut down after harvesting)
- Mother (bearing a single bunch, which takes almost two years to mature and can weigh up to 100 kg!)
- Daughter (the next plant to bear fruit)
We left the museum feeling surprisingly well-educated about bananas—and ready for one final stop of the day.
Cabo Girão Skywalk – Overrated?
The last stop of the day was Cabo Girão, home to Madeira’s famous glass-floored skywalk.
💰 Entrance fee: €2
In our opinion? Not really worth it. The glass section mainly gave a view of the cliffs directly below, rather than an open ocean perspective. If you really want to see the ocean, you have to stand at the railing—which kind of defeats the purpose of the skywalk. Still, it was a popular tourist attraction, so we were glad to see it for ourselves—but we wouldn’t necessarily recommend it as a must-do if you are not nearby.
Ending the Day with Nikita in Câmara de Lobos
To finish the day, we stopped in Câmara de Lobos, where we tried Nikita—a unique summer drink from Madeira.
🍍 What’s in it? Pineapple juice, ice cream, and either beer or wine. At first, the combination sounded questionable, but surprisingly, it tasted really good. That said, one was definitely enough—it’s not something we’d drink in large quantities but it was surprisinly good. As we sat there, reflecting on our first full day of post-hike adventures, we couldn’t help but appreciate how diverse Madeira is. From wine tasting to banana education, volcanic pools to skywalks, the island had already shown us so much—and we were only getting started.
Fun Fact: Madeira’s Banana Controversy – The EU vs. Local Farmers
Despite being one of the most famous banana-growing regions in Europe, Madeira’s bananas don’t meet EU standards because they are smaller and slightly curved. For years, Madeiran banana farmers have fought against EU regulations, arguing that their bananas are just as high-quality (if not better) than those imported from larger producers. Thankfully, Madeiran bananas still flourish locally and remain a beloved island specialty—even if they don’t fit the “perfect banana shape” demanded by the European market.
Fun Fact: The Monte Sledge Ride Wasn’t Always for Tourists
While Madeira’s famous wicker sledges are now a tourist attraction, they were originally used as a practical form of transportation. In the 19th century, the steep streets of Funchal made it difficult to transport goods and people down from Monte. So, locals invented the sledges, using greased wooden runners and two men (Carreiros) to steer them. Today, they’re a must-do experience for visitors—but back then, it was just an everyday way to get downhill fast!
Day 10 [11th Nov 2023]
Canyoning + paragliding
Canyoning, Paragliding & Poncha Tasting – A Day of Adrenaline & Adventure
We had big plans for Saturday—canyoning in the Valley of the Nuns in the morning, followed by paragliding over Madeira’s coastline in the afternoon. We weren’t entirely sure if we could fit both activities into one day, but we were determined to try.
The Breakfast Blunder & A Sky-High Start
Our canyoning meeting point was in the Valley of the Nuns (Curral das Freiras) at 9:30 AM, and the navigation estimated a 1.5-hour drive from our accommodation. To be safe, we left at 7:30 AM—but since breakfast at our hotel didn’t start until 8 AM, we had arranged for a picnic takeaway instead. 🚨 Big mistake. What we got was the saddest excuse for a sandwich—literally two slices of bread with one thin layer of ham and cheese. Not even a spread of butter. Honestly, I think a monkey could have made it better.
Despite the disappointing breakfast, the drive itself made up for it. As we approached Pico do Arieiro, we were met with breathtaking views above the clouds. Since we had extra time, we stopped at a scenic spot and ate our basic breakfast while floating above a sky duvet. Arriving in Curral das Freiras, we took advantage of the extra time for a coffee and chestnut pastel de nata—a must-try, as the valley is famous for chestnuts.
Canyoning in the Valley of the Nuns – Abseils, Jumps & Regrets
At the meeting point, we were welcomed by the friendly team from “Be Local”, who greeted us with big smiles and wetsuits in hand. The group had 15 participants, so they split us into two teams, each with two guides. The experience was a mix of abseiling, jumps, slides, and pure fun:
🧗 Abseiling down waterfalls
💦 Jumping into clear pools
🚀 Riding down a natural “toboggan”
The final and highest jump was 6 meters, but from below, it looked a lot trickier—like it would take serious effort to avoid hitting the rocks. Lu didn’t hesitate for a second, but I waited to see how difficult it was. By the time I made up my mind, it was too late. I regretted not doing it—but oh well, my fears won this round. Canyoning was an absolute blast, and before we knew it, it was time to move on to our next adventure.
A Quick Stop at Cascata dos Anjos
Before heading to paragliding, we made a short stop at Cascata dos Anjos, a waterfall that flows directly over the road.
🚗 First, we rinsed the car under the waterfall.
🚿 Then, we rinsed ourselves.
Well… we tried. But instead of getting clean, we ended up smelling like sulfur, because the water stank.
At least we got to check off another local attraction—and, luckily, we avoided the usual tourist rush.
Paragliding Over the Coastline – Facing the Fear & Taking the Controls
We arrived at our paragliding meeting point in Madalena do Mar with plenty of time to spare. So, we sat back, had a snack, and watched other paragliders take off before it was our turn. As the moment approached, I could feel the nerves kicking in.
🪂 Helmet on. Instructions given.
💨 Wind conditions? Not ideal—we had to wait.
Then, suddenly, I heard: “Run, run, run!” So I started running, and before I even knew what was happening, we were already in the air. I must have been so focused on running, that even after takeoff, I was still kicking my feet as if I were still on the ground. 🤦♀️ Realizing what I was doing, I burst out laughing—and just like that, all the fear disappeared. Pure joy replaced it as I soared above the stunning Madeira coastline, taking in the incredible views.
☁️ Flying high above the ocean
🏔️ Gliding over Madeira’s cliffs and villages
🌊 Watching the waves crash far below
The landing was smooth, and I couldn’t stop smiling as I thanked Mauricio, my instructor.
Meanwhile, Lu had a completely different experience—her instructor, Remi, skipped the instructions and just let her take control of the flight herself. Both of us were beyond excited after landing. Paragliding over Madeira? 100% worth it.
Poncha & Espetada – Celebrating with Madeira’s Best
Still high on adrenaline, we started thinking: Where should we eat?
We had been recommended an all-you-can-eat restaurant in São Vicente, but we weren’t feeling a huge meal. Instead, we remembered the small mountain restaurant where we had our first Poncha before hiking Pico Ruivo.
So, we decided to go back and finish some unfinished business—trying ALL the Poncha flavors.
🍢 Dinner: Espetada (Madeira’s famous grilled meat skewers)
🍹 Poncha tasting round 2:
✔️ Passion fruit (still the best!)
✔️ Tangerine (a close second)
✔️ Fisherman’s Poncha with mint (surprisingly refreshing!)
After finishing our meal, we continued to São Vicente for a night walk—but, of course, Lu discovered even more Poncha flavors:
✔️ Tutti Frutti
✔️ Pineapple
With a day full of adventure behind us, we finally drove back to our accommodation, ending the night exhausted but happy.
Final Thoughts – Best Day Yet?
From jumping into waterfalls to soaring over the coast, today was packed with unforgettable moments.
Madeira had once again amazed us—not just with its natural beauty, but with the endless ways to experience it.
And, of course, no day in Madeira is complete without Poncha. 🍹
Day 11 [12th Nov 2023]
Magical sunset
Rum, Local Markets & A Magical Sunset at Pico Ruivo
After days of adrenaline-filled adventures, today was planned to be a more relaxed exploration—we were heading to Porto da Cruz to visit a rum distillery, followed by some good food and local markets, and finishing the day with a sunset at Pico Ruivo.
Porto da Cruz – Rum & The Power of Nature
We arrived in Porto da Cruz a little before the rum factory opened, so we took a walk down to the beach to watch the surfers.
🏄♂️ The waves? Not worth it. The conclusion? Yet again, we had definitely chosen the wrong season for surfing.
Once the distillery opened, we learned that rum production only happens during the sugarcane harvest season (usually between March and May). The distillery still operates with steam-powered machinery, keeping the traditional process alive. Unfortunately, since we were out of season, we couldn’t see the machines in action. However, we toured the facility, saw all the original equipment, and watched a video of the production process, which was surprisingly informative and immersive.
Afterward, we continued along the boardwalk, where something unexpected caught our attention—a hole in the rock. We stood there for a good 10 minutes, completely mesmerized by the power of the waves, watching as they rushed in and shot out through the hole like a natural geyser. 🌊 Incredible force of nature.
Sunday Markets & A Familiar Face in Santo da Serra
Since it was Sunday, we decided to check out the local farmers’ market in Santo da Serra, having read that Sunday markets in Madeira are worth visiting. As we walked through the market, we unexpectedly ran into a familiar face—a guy who had camped near us in São Lourenço! What are the chances? Despite the positive reviews, we didn’t find the market particularly special as tourists. While it was probably great for locals, it didn’t leave much of an impression on us, so we moved on to something we were really excited about—food!
Lunch at Marcel’s Bistro – Limpets, Espada & Staff Attitude
We had heard fantastic reviews about Marcel’s Bistro in Santana, so we decided to try it for ourselves.
🍽️ Appetizer (In the end mine):
- Limpets (because mussels aren’t local, and we always prefer to eat locally).
- Bolo do Caco (because a meal in Madeira wouldn’t feel right without it).
🍽️ Main Dish (In the end Lu’s):
- Black Scabbard Fish (Espada) with fruit, baked sweet potatoes & salad.
🍹 Drinks:
- Fresh orange juice (we originally wanted passion fruit, but it turned out to be bottled juice).
- Poncha (also disappointing, as it wasn’t made from fresh juice either).
The food itself was fantastic, but we couldn’t help but notice the strange attitude of the staff.
👀 The issue? Probably our clothes. Since we had come to Madeira primarily for hiking, we were dressed in sporty attire—and judging by the glares from the staff, they were not thrilled to have us there. Adding to the awkwardness, the cooks themselves brought the food to the tables, and we probably offended them with our presence, because they didn’t hide their annoyed looks. Still, we weren’t about to let some judgmental stares ruin our meal—the food was delicious, and that’s what mattered.
Exploring Santana’s Traditional Houses
After lunch, we took a daytime walk through Santana, famous for its traditional red-roofed houses with triangular thatched roofs—a classic postcard image of Madeira.
🏡 Reality check: Instead of being historical exhibits, most of these houses had been converted into souvenir shops, Poncha stands, and cookie vendors. There was one exception—a small, authentic house where an elderly woman was spinning linen thread and selling hand-woven rugs and tablecloths. Finally, it was time to head back to our accommodation, where we did one last round of laundry before setting off for our final adventure—sunset at Pico Ruivo.
A Second Chance for Pico Ruivo – The Sunset We Hoped For
Even though we had sworn never to return to Pico Ruivo after our fog-covered sunrise attempt, something told us we should give it another chance.
☕ Before starting the hike, we stopped at Achada do Teixeira Spot Café, the restaurant near the parking lot.
- I had a coffee with passion fruit cheesecake.
- Lu had fresh orange juice.
The hike to Pico Ruivo from this parking lot takes about 1.5 hours, so we set off with cautious optimism, hoping the weather would finally cooperate this time.
And it did. 🌄 The sunset was magical. The sky turned into a blend of orange, pink, and purple, with the mountain peaks rising above the cloud layer. We felt lucky to have caught this moment on our last possible evening in Madeira.
🌟 Lesson learned? Sometimes, giving a place a second chance is worth it.
Fun Fact: Madeira’s Traditional Rum – Poncha’s Essential Ingredient
Madeira’s sugarcane rum, known as “Aguardente de Cana”, is the key ingredient in the island’s most famous drink—Poncha. Unlike many rums, Madeira’s sugarcane rum is not aged, meaning it has a stronger, fresher, and slightly harsher taste compared to barrel-aged rums.
Final Thoughts – A Perfect Closing to Our Madeira Adventures
This day was the perfect mix of history, culture, and nature, bringing our Madeira journey full circle:
✔️ Rum distillery & learning about traditional sugarcane production
✔️ Enjoying Madeira’s best seafood in Santana
✔️ Exploring the island’s most iconic village
✔️ Ending it all with a breathtaking sunset at Pico Ruivo
Our last full day in Madeira had exceeded expectations—and we couldn’t have asked for a better farewell to this stunning island.
Day 12 [13th Nov 2023]
Last day on the island
Final Day in Madeira – A Sweet Farewell to the Island of Eternal Spring
Our last day in Madeira had arrived. After days of adventure, breathtaking landscapes, and incredible food, it was time to say goodbye to the island—but not before one last round of exploration.
Madeira Wine Museum & The Truth About Poncha
After breakfast, we packed our things, handed over our accommodation keys, and set off for one last cultural stop—the Madeira Wine Museum.
🍷 What we learned:
- Madeira wine has a unique aging process, using heat and oxidation, which gives it a distinct flavor compared to other wines.
- The best Madeira wines can be aged for decades, with some bottles costing thousands of euros.
- Poncha Fact: The passion fruit Poncha we had been obsessed with throughout our trip? Technically, it’s not a real Poncha.
- A true Poncha is made with Madeira rum and fresh fruit juice.
- Many modern versions (including the passion fruit one we loved) are actually mixed with vodka instead of rum.
- The most authentic Poncha we had seen was at a wine bar in São Vicente, where we could watch it being made fresh in front of us—a true honest Poncha.
With one final appreciation for Madeira’s traditional drinks, we wrapped up our visit and continued to the car rental.
Returning the Car & Preparing for an Airport Sleepover
At 12 PM, we returned the rental car and took a transfer to the airport. 🛫 Our flight was at 6 AM, with the gate closing at 5:30 AM—so we already knew we’d be spending the night at the airport. Since we had plenty of time, we left the airport behind and walked to Santa Cruz, about 30 minutes away, to enjoy our last few hours on the island.
Santa Cruz – One Last Taste of Madeira
🌊 By the ocean: We found a quiet spot by the ocean, where we sat for a while, watching the waves crash against the rocks, crabs crawling along the shore, and planes soaring right above us as they took off and landed.
☕ Afternoon coffee & Pastel de Nata: As the heat became unbearable, we decided to move to a café/pastry shop (Doce Satisfação)—a perfect place for our final treat.
🥐 Pastel de Nata – The Famous Portuguese Custard Tart: I had been waiting to try one on the last day, and now I understood why Trish ordered it every time she saw it. Absolutely delicious.
🍹 Fresh Drinks: For the first time, we were offered something other than orange juice—but we still decided orange was our favorite in Madeira.
Soaking in the Last Moments
As the sun began to set, we found one last peaceful spot by the ocean, where we watched the waves, talked, and simply enjoyed the moment. With our time in Madeira coming to an end, we prepared our final meal on the island, reminiscing about everything we had experienced.
The Airport Sleepover – A Surprisingly Good Decision
We made our way back to the airport, finding a grassy spot underneath the runway, where we planned to spend the night.
🌙 At first, it was peaceful and dark, but later in the night, we realized:
💡 The lights suddenly turned on.
📹 Cameras were everywhere.
We half-expected someone to come and throw us out, but no one did, and we managed to stay until morning. Honestly? It was better than sleeping on the uncomfortable airport seats like many other travelers.
Final Thoughts – A Perfect Ending to an Unforgettable Journey
Madeira had exceeded our expectations in every way—from its dramatic landscapes and thrilling adventures to its warm people and incredible food.
This last day was the perfect way to say goodbye:
✔️ Learning more about Madeira’s traditions and flavors
✔️ Enjoying our final hours by the ocean
✔️ Tasting the famous Pastel de Nata
✔️ Finding an unconventional but surprisingly decent overnight spot
Madeira will definitely remain one of our favorite travel memories—and who knows? Maybe we’ll be back one day for a real Poncha, proper surfing conditions, and another sunset at Pico Ruivo.
Fun Fact: Madeira’s Airport – One of the Most Challenging Landings in the World
Madeira’s Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is considered one of the most difficult airports for pilots to land at.
✈️ Why?
- The runway is short, built partly on a platform over the ocean, supported by 180 concrete pillars.
- The approach requires a sharp turn between mountains, making it one of the trickiest landings in commercial aviation.
Only specially trained pilots are allowed to land here, and strong winds often make it even more challenging—sometimes forcing planes to circle or even land multiple times before succeeding.
Luckily, our landing on the first day was smooth—but after learning this, we appreciated the skill of our pilots even more!
Day 13 [14th Nov 2023]
Departure
And that’s a wrap – Goodbye, Madeira!
With tired eyes but happy hearts, we boarded our early morning flight, leaving behind the island of eternal spring, but carrying memories that will last a lifetime. Until next time, Madeira! 🌿☀️🌊
Layover in Manchester – A Quick Adventure Before Returning Home
With our Madeira adventure officially over, we found ourselves at Madeira Airport a little after 4 AM, ready for our long journey home. Even though we were exhausted, we still had time for one last airport breakfast, people-watching, and—of course—getting stuck in the duty-free zone. Almost missing the flight? Classic. At some point, we suddenly realized the gate was already closed. Cue the panic mode. We rushed to the gate, but luckily, we weren’t alone—two other latecomers had also miscalculated their time. Since they let them board, we were fine too.
At least our concerns about baggage checks in Madeira were resolved—though we still had a Manchester layover, where another round of potential checks awaited us.
Manchester Layover – Turning 5 Hours Into An Adventure
Since we had a five-hour layover, and our flight landed a bit earlier than expected, we decided to do something instead of just sitting around.
💡 Google Suggestion: A 5 km circular walk not far from the airport.
😅 Reality: No one mentioned that getting to the starting point was also 5 km.
But we were already committed, so off we went!
🍂 The weather was on our side, and we fully enjoyed the autumn colors along the way.
A Cozy Café & Manchester’s Dog-Friendly Vibes
Halfway through our walk, we stumbled upon Earlam’s Community Store and Café—a perfect find.
✔️ Gluten-free cookies? Yes, please.
✔️ Dog-friendly atmosphere? Absolutely our kind of place.
Sitting there, sipping coffee and soaking in the cozy atmosphere, we realized something:
🐶 Manchester seems to be incredibly dog-friendly.
At least, based on how many dogs we saw during our impromptu walking tour.
Gate Climbing & The Classic English Weather
As we continued our walk, we encountered a small issue—some gates in the park were locked.
🚧 Problem:
- The maps didn’t show the gates at all.
- The signs said they shouldn’t be locked until 5 PM—but it was way earlier than that.
⏳ Solution:
- No time to waste.
- Over the gates we go!
As we made our way back to the airport, the English weather decided to give us a proper farewell—rain, of course. Would it really be a trip to the UK without getting rained on at least once?
Last-Minute Airport Panic (Again)
Back at the airport, we still had a little over an hour to spare, so naturally, we got stuck in the duty-free zone again. When we finally approached our departure gate, we noticed something concerning:
🛄 Intense luggage size checks.
We quickly ran to the restroom to adjust the size of our backpacks, fully expecting that they’d re-measure them anyway. And then… somehow, we walked through without any issues.
Not sure how we pulled that off, but we weren’t about to question it.
The Final Flight & A Quick Turnaround
✈️ Flight to the Czech Republic? Quick and smooth.
Which was great, because we had only three or four days to:
✔️ Catch up with friends & family
✔️ Unpack everything from Belgium
✔️ Unpack from Madeira
✔️ Repack for our next adventure—Poland with Lu’s cool grandma & aunt!
No time to waste—onto the next journey! 🚀
Fun Fact: Manchester Airport’s “Hidden Runway Trick”
Did you know that Manchester Airport’s runways were built at an unusual angle?
✈️ Why?
- Instead of being built in a straight line, the runways have a slight curve.
- This was done to reduce noise pollution for surrounding residential areas.
So, the next time you take off from Manchester, you might notice a subtle change in direction—a design choice that helps keep the city a little quieter.
Final Thoughts – A Perfectly Chaotic End to a Perfect Adventure
From Madeira’s mountains and rum distilleries to Manchester’s autumn parks and last-minute airport sprints, this trip had everything:
✔️ Incredible nature
✔️ Delicious food
✔️ Unexpected fun
✔️ And just the right amount of travel chaos
Now, with only a few days at home, it was time to prepare for the next adventure—because travel never really stops, does it? 😊