Utah Road Trip Itinerary: 13 Days of Epic Hikes, National Parks & Hidden Gems

A permit is required to hike Angels Landing. We tried our luck in the day-before lottery—and luckily, we got one!

We wanted to start as early as possible because we knew the final section follows a narrow ridge with chains, where hikers constantly have to pass one another. If you manage to get one of the first morning permits, there’s a good chance you won’t encounter anyone on the way up, making the entire experience much more enjoyable. That’s why we got up very early to catch the first shuttle bus.

The shuttle buses are free and operate throughout Zion National Park, helping reduce traffic and overcrowded parking lots. For Angels Landing, the best stop is The Grotto.

There are two ways to obtain an Angels Landing permit:

• Seasonal Lottery – You apply several months in advance for a specific season. During the application process, you can choose up to seven preferred dates or time windows. The application fee is $6 USD per group (up to six people), and if you’re successful, you’ll pay an additional $3 USD per person.
• Day-before Lottery – If your trip is more spontaneous, you can try your luck the day before your planned hike. It works on the same lottery system and is often your last chance to secure a permit.

The good news is that even if you don’t get a permit, you definitely don’t have to skip the hike. The trail to Scout Lookout, including the famous Walter’s Wiggles switchbacks, doesn’t require a permit and is already one of the most beautiful hikes in Zion National Park. Only the final 800 metres along the narrow ridge with chains are restricted to permit holders.

We ended up being among the first five people to reach the summit. I’ll admit there was one section where I thought I won’t make it. From a distance, it looked far scarier than it actually was. The entire route is lined with chains that you can hold onto almost the whole way. Yes, there are sheer drops of hundreds of metres beside you in places, but if you take your time, move at your own pace, and don’t let other people rush you, it’s absolutely manageable—even if you’re afraid of heights.

The feeling at the top was impossible to describe. The views, the adrenaline, and most of all the satisfaction of pushing beyond my own limits made every step worthwhile. That said, if you don’t feel comfortable tackling the final ridge, don’t worry about it. The view from Scout Lookout is very similar, and the only thing you’ll really miss is the adrenaline.

On the way back down, we naturally met plenty of people making their way up. That’s when I finally understood why Angels Landing has earned a reputation as one of the most dangerous hikes in the world. Personally, though, I don’t think the trail itself is the greatest danger. I think that some people make it danger by how they act, irresponsible, incosiderately. Some hikers were literally running uphill, overtaking others in the narrowest sections, or trying to squeeze past people who were descending. A little patience and consideration would make the trail much safer for everyone. That’s why I’d personally recommend trying to get either the earliest morning permit or one of the last afternoon permits before sunset. You’ll avoid the biggest crowds, and the entire experience will be both safer and far more enjoyable.

Since Zion’s shuttle system meant we didn’t have to return to the same parking lot where we started, we decided to add a few extra kilometres and visit the Emerald Pools. The trail takes you directly beneath a waterfall, and although it’s only a short detour, it’s definitely worth the visit.

Because we wanted to make the most of our time in Zion National Park, we then caught the shuttle all the way to its final stop, where another famous hike begins—The Narrows. This hike is unlike almost any other. Never—really, never—start this hike during rain, after rain, or if rain is forecast. The reason is simple: you’re hiking through a narrow canyon, and conditions can change extremely quickly. If the water becomes too deep, the current too strong, or a flash flood occurs, the situation can become incredibly dangerous.

At the trailhead, you’ll find an information board showing the current flash flood risk. If the danger level is extreme, nobody should begin the hike. That said, no warning level ever means the canyon is 100% safe. There’s always a small possibility that heavy rain elsewhere in the drainage basin could send a flash flood downstream without warning.

Some hikers rent waterproof dry suits, special canyon boots, and walking sticks for this hike. We decided not to rent anything. We’ve crossed plenty of rivers before, and we’re fairly comfortable in cold water. At the same time, we knew we didn’t want to push ourselves too far. The canyon stays cool throughout the day because very little sunlight reaches the bottom, and the water was absolutely freezing. We also knew we’d have to walk the exact same distance back through that icy water.

I’d definitely recommend bringing some snacks or quick sources of sugar as well. Your body burns through energy much faster when you’re cold. We chose the Bottom-Up route, which doesn’t require a permit. The full out-and-back hike is 14.3 km with around 212 metres of elevation gain, and it starts from the Temple of Sinawava shuttle stop.

The other option is the Top-Down route, which does require a permit. It’s 26 km long with approximately 633 metres of elevation gain. There are designated campsites along the route, and you’ll need plenty of warm clothing for the cold nights inside the canyon, enough water for the entire hike, or a water filter. Personally, though, I think the Bottom-Up route is more than enough. For us, the main goal was simply to experience walking through the canyon itself and wading up the river.

Since we’d started the day so early, we still had time to visit Weeping Rock. The trail leads to a small rock alcove where water constantly drips from the cliff above. Standing beneath the overhang while looking out across Zion’s towering cliffs, with water cascading just in front of you, creates a really beautiful atmosphere.

Because we planned to continue to Bryce Canyon National Park the following day, we decided to finish the afternoon with Observation Point. We wanted to see Zion from a completely different perspective—and, of course, we had to look back at Angels Landing from afar. And I have to say… Wow, this place is breathtaking. Seeing the narrow ridge we’d climbed that morning from a completely different viewpoint was absolutely incredible.

Since it was my name day, Lu decided to take me out for dinner—a reward we had definitely earned after everything we’d hiked that day. We shared a plate of beef ribs that literally fell off the bone. And of course, ribs had to be accompanied by a beer. (Lu skipped the beer and drove, exceptionally, since she doesn’t like driving at dusk or after dark because of her eyesight.)

As a surprise, dessert was waiting for me too. Another apple pie. This one was topped with an incredible warm rum sauce. I’d honestly thought no apple pie could top the one from Gifford Homestead… I was wrong. It was absolutely fantastic. But this time it wasn’t just about the pie, but about the combination. So if you’re visiting Zion National Park, I highly recommend making the short drive to Mount Carmel and stopping at the Thunderbird Restaurant.

That evening, we drove closer to Bryce Canyon National Park, ready to catch sunrise the following morning over one of the most beautiful national parks in the American Southwest.